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Red dot contacts in PCB view

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Those little red dots drove me crazy for a long time... two identical circle... one had the red dot and one didn't. They looked identical in the graphics editor. but in the .svg, the one with the red circle had the transformed parameters. You wouldn't think just by rotating a circle it would be transformed...

I don't use Inkscape, I get too frustrated :scream: trying to make it do things... I expect it to work like CorelDraw... I have used CorelDraw for years in my business and know it like the back of my hand.

As for your fonts... did you ever install the Droid Sans and OCAR on your computer?


Can you make me parts from these illustrations?

First part for review

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So, I have finally managed to get a very simple part created and apparently (as far as I can see anyway) working the way I want it. If the more experienced parts creators (which will be almost anyone :slight_smile: ) would take a look at it and point out any errors, style violations or the like I would appreciate it Hopefully the upload worked correctly (my first try at that as well). Inkscape appears to be a suboptimal solution as its coordinate system and Fritzing's appear to be different. In the end I left the bounding box the way it was (over large) because if I change it the edits for the connector pins in the xml screw up.

Peter Van Epp

PM6078-004.fzpz (7.0 KB)

Red dot contacts in PCB view

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For some reason the copied contact circles became ellipses in the XML, and now I know what to look out for.

Yeah I installed Droid but FZ still kicked up a fuss. I don't really use fonts much, if at all, it's just when I mod other people's parts that have fonts. I had the amazing shifting font sizes when I tried to mod a voltage reg from Core parts.

First part for review

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I didn't actually check the dimensions to the datasheet, but wow. I wish my first part was that good because I can't see anything out of place when I use the part.

In Edit the fonts look funny - even I don't know how fonts work - , but as long as it works properly it's a win.

EDIT
A minor thing. I was just playing in EDIT and you might want to add some more info in the Metadata to make it more descriptive, like DC to DC converter to the title, because that is what is displayed in the Inspector. And 24 pins.

First part for review

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Hi Peter,

Couldn't find a datasheet... looks good, but Old Gray is right, you need to clean up your Metadata, there is still stuff left in there from the FZ Core chip generator. I would renumber the pins in the schematic to 1, 2, 3, 4 since there are only 4 pins. And remove the 24 pins in the properties, you really don't need that at all.

Resizing Stripboard - cropping from left?

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Is there a way to crop/resize a stripboard board, but cropping from the left?

I probably made a rookie mistake and laid my parts out on the far right of the board.

Resizing Stripboard - cropping from left?

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Maybe rotate it 180º, crop, and rotate back.

I'll give it a play.

EDIT
Yeah it works.


Barn-door Astrotracker

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Closer but still a few problems (I just discovered I could download the schematic and blow it up in Infanview which makes looking at it easier!): the push buttons and LCD look fine, but the motor driver still have some problems. First the Gnd pin on the bottom right needs to connect to ground on the Arduino (there are two grounds on the motor driver, one for the motor which is connected correctly and one for the logic which currently isn't connected). While they probably are connected together internally, current surges in the motor (which there will be) can affect logic ground causing problems, so using that as logic ground is a bad idea, so connect up the logic grounds by connecting the motor driver ground on the bottom right to Arduino ground. Then you are missing a connection from step on the motor driver to an output pin on the Arduino, the direction pin tells it which way to go, but it won't do anything unless the step pin is pulsed to cause it to take a step. Then reset needs a connection, I'd use a connection to the Arduino reset pin., that way when the Arduino is reset so will the motor driver which is likely what you want. Then the en pin needs to be connected to Arduino ground and slp needs to connect to a pull up resistor (1K is fine) to 5 volts to disable sleep mode. That should do it
for the connections I think. As to the current question basically yes, the higher the resistance
the less the current for the same voltage. This is controlled by ohms law which says
I =E/R where I is the current, E is the voltage and R is the resistance. In the case of your
10 ohm pull up resistor to 5 Volts we get 5/10 or .5 amps of current (likely more than the Arduino 5V supply can deliver) for each button pushed, so pushing all three at once would try and take 1.5A! With a 1K pull up resistor that drops to 5 milliamps a much more reasonable current draw. As to the question of battery packs, that depends on how much current the stepper takes. Unlike a dc motor which only draws current when it is running, a stepper motor always draws current (to hold the motor in its current position). It isn't uncommon for a big stepper motor to take upwards of 1/2 amp per phase which will flatten even a 5 amp hour battery
pack reasonably quickly. While in theory 5 amp hours should supply .5 amps for 10 hours in practice that time is usually less. Its going to be a case of try it and see I expect, you may end up having to put more batteries in parallel to get the time you want.

Peter Van Epp

Resizing Stripboard - cropping from left?

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Yea Old Grey, good idea... "rotate"... :laughing:

First part for review

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Yes the data sheet has gone missing :slight_smile: its original use was in coax cable Ethernet adapters so it is more than 30 years old (and probably obsolete for 25 years or so) but B+G seems to have a ton of them and they are still useful. I had a data sheet at one point but can't currently find it and all that is currently around on the internet is a catalog page. It is basically a module the same size as a 24 pin .600 wide IC that fits in a 24 pin through hole IC socket which is why I used the 24 pin as a start. The pin numbers match up with where they connect on such a socket which is why I left them like that. I thought I had cleaned up the metadata, but I'll have another look. Thanks for the input!

Peter Van Epp

Resizing Stripboard - cropping from left?

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Never would have thought of that!

I thought it was going to work, but when I resize the board it correctly removes from the right but the wire jumpers get all messed up.

Resizing Stripboard - cropping from left?

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Holly crap your right.

There is a big bug there because jumpers go crazy even if you don't rotate it.

I have noticed that FZ doesn't like board changes after the original selection.

EDIT
Parts are fine but wires are crazy.
I guess you could print screen and have the pic next to the board as a reference to putting the wires back.

Incorperating Github Fritzing Parts into Fritzing

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After downloading and saving the Fritzing Parts from Github to my computer, how can I incorperate them into the Fritzing program?

Incorperating Github Fritzing Parts into Fritzing

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If they are a .fzpz part you right-click in My Parts and import.


Incorperating Github Fritzing Parts into Fritzing

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There are many parts and the parts are all fzb

Incorperating Github Fritzing Parts into Fritzing

First part for review

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Thinking about your comment I realize that I made a mistake in deleting the unused socket pins as that precludes using a socket (since they don't make 24 pin sockets with only 4 pins like they do for 8 pin DIPs for oscillators). So I'm trying to add back in holes without connection points as in the various prototyping boards. However I can't get any of the existing parts (at least that I've looked at) to show me how they get just bare pads without connections. Exporting the part and looking at it in Inkscape shows the pads with connections but the bare breadboard pads don't show up. One of the documents I read talks about doing it (but as usual I can't now find that document) in somewhat unclear terms about ncon$sequence number I think. Can someone point me at an example of how to create a pad that doesn't have a connection pin in pcb view please?

Peter Van Epp

Search function in the parts view does not work

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In my new installed Windows 10 the search function works.
It looks like the failure is in my Windows 7 Installation.

First part for review

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I suppose you could cut the pins off the socket that you're not using or direct soldering to the PCB.

Anything in copper is a hole, and if it's a just a non connected contact just do it in the usual way. I don't even bother naming contacts in Ink XML, I just use a circle with stroke and FZ knows what is going on. I think labeling contacts in Ink helps auto select pins in FZ Edit.

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