Of course, I can make this adapter by cutting a piece of prototyping board but I want to make my adapter using a Genmitsu 3020 pro max milling machine.
This is more difficult but it opens the door to much more complex achievements with the use of Fritzing.
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Impossible mini PCB
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Impossible mini PCB
Ah! You appear to want this:
esp01-adapter.fzz (2.7 KB)
which looks like this in pcb (the green lines are the breadboard) the center 2 lines are the center without pins.)
which looks like this on the breadboard (but not in the sketch due to the dual row connector I used.)
The two outside connectors are male, the middle dual row is female to accept the pins from the esp8266-esp01 which will then extend out over the breadboard which is not ideal as it blocks connections on one side or the other from the breadboard. A better solution would be an 8 pin IDE cable to connect to the esp8266-esp01 while allowing connections to the breadboard pins where the esp8266-esp01 would normally block them.
Peter
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Arduino multiable state machines code
You’d need separate info for each interval and test them all after another. Shortened like:
int led1_pin = D2; // pin
int led1_on = 0; // ms switched 'on'
int led1_dur_on = 250; // duration to keep 'on'
int led1_off = 0; // ms switched 'off'
int led1_dur_off = 750; // duration to keep 'off'
bool led1_lit = false; // state: switched 'on'?
int led2_pin = D4;
int led2_on = 0;
int led2_dur_on = 123;
int led2_off = 0;
int led2_dur_off = 987;
bool led2_lit = false;
void setup()
[ . . . ]
pinMode( led1_pin, OUTPUT );
digitalWrite( led1_pin, led1_lit );
pinMode( led2_pin, OUTPUT );
digitalWrite( led2_pin, led1_lit );
[ . . . ]
void loop()
[ . . . ]
int ms_now;
ms_now = millis();
// is led1 switched on? is it time to turn it off?
if ( led1_lit ) {
if ( ms_now - led1_on > led1_dur_on ) {
led1_off = ms_now; // remember ms for 'off'
led1_lit = ! led1_lit; // or: false --> not lit
digitalWrite( led1_pin, led1_lit );
}
}
// repeat for 'off' to 'on'
// repeat both for led2
[ . . . ]
If ‘on’ and ‘off’ duration are the same you could simplify that dramatically, but I wouldn’t suggest that. If you would like to set a larger number of LEDs blinking it would make sense to use a loop through an array instead of copying almost similar blocks of code.
Michael
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Dbl sided board w/all solder on bottom
I’ve gone through a ton of research and testing and finally have a process for creating boards by spray painting, drawing traces with my laser, chemical etching, masking with photo film, etc. It’s taken a ton of trial and error but I was able to assemble my first real board this morning when I realized I made a massive error - some of the component connections on top I can’t access to solder. I knew some connections would be on top for my arduino, and had planned for that knowing the pins were long enough that I can access them top and bottom to solder. But I guess I totally spaced out on other connections like headers and my power. So many details to keep track of! Anyhow, I got those other components out of the box and the pins are just long enough to solder on the bottom side if on the top side they are against the board and cover the solder area.
My question is how in fritzing to use a double-sided board, but force all soldering connections to be on the bottom? In other words - allow autorouting to use both sides for traces and utilize all the vias it wants - but don’t put trace end-points anywhere on the top?
I’ve searched and found a couple mentions of these general terms, but nothing specific to this problem - which is surprising since surely it’s a common issue. In fritzing I’ve tried disabling traces from autorouting and going back and forth from single-sided to double-sided boards, but since a trace and its end/solder connections can’t be independently forced to top or bottom layers nothing has worked.
Is there something I’m missing or is this just one of those things that totally has to be manually worked around overall?
thanks,
Magestyx
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Dbl sided board w/all solder on bottom
I expect you would need to do it manual. Fritzing is expecting double sided boards to have plated through holes (which you can’t do at home.) If you want to run traces on the top you need a double sided board. So you choices would be a single sided board and do crossovers with jumpers or manually reroute anything you can’t solder on the top using vias.
Peter
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Impossible mini PCB
Perhaps this part will do what you want. I created it to match a physical implementation. Take a 2 by 10 header with long leads. Bend the leads on each side out, then back to get a .1 in offset. This was for an nrf24l01, but that has the same layout as the esp. It does not ‘look’ the same, but it should match the functionality of the board you want to mill.
2-by-10-header2dip.fzpz (3.7 KB)
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Dbl sided board w/all solder on bottom
When working with traces in PCB view, you can specify (and move) individual traces between top and bottom of the board. If you make “sure” that all of the traces that connect to pins that need to be soldered (those that connect to solder pads) are on the bottom of the board, everything should work. Something like a single pin header can be used connect to a trace on the top. Since a standard via will not work, if it is not plated through.
The real answer is you can’t tell autorouting to do what you want for regular THT parts. You need to do it yourself. If you use SMD parts, autorouting would keep all of the connection on the side that parts are on. You can toggle that. What it looks like is needed, is parts that are THT (so the hole is shown to be drilled), but that only have a solder connection on one side. I think that breaks all sorts of ‘rules’ for making Fritzing parts, but it MIGHT be possible. I don’t want to go there to find out. Especially since every part used would have to be modified the same way.
If all of the parts you are using have SMD versions (with the same spacing), you could try placing those, then manually adding a pcb hole part in the middle of the solder pad.
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Dbl sided board w/all solder on bottom
Thank you for the replies. Glad it wasn’t just a setting I couldn’t find, but wouldn’t it be nice?
I’m etching the new boards at this moment. I finally just did a double-sided autoroute, then started to get the hang of how to go to each top route, move it to the bottom, adding 2 vias and then moving the connector between the vias to the top. Fortunately it’s not a crazy complex board.
I haven’t tried it yet, but I’m curious if a potential way to do this with autoroute would be to add a via right next to each solder connector - a proxy ‘either side’ option - then do an autoroute. If resulting routes are already on the bottom, then the via can be removed and routed straight to the connector. Otherwise, just leave it via-ed. It wouldn’t be ideal, but for homebrew boards it might actually solve this problem while still allowing autoroute to work fully.
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Bin in list view - unable to place component
Will do - here is a better photo taken with a camera -
Cheers Peter
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WCS1800 hall current sensor board
Name of the part
WCS1800 hall current sensor board
Previous work, similar parts
Didn’t find any
Top view
Datasheet
The official documentation of the part manufacture is linked here:
(WCS1800 Datasheet(PDF) - Winson Semiconductor Corp.)
Type
I did not read this
Breakout board, sub assembly, plug in module (A)
Antenna (AE)
Battery (BT)
Capacitor (C)
Diode (D)
Display (DS)
Fuse (F)
Hardware , mounting screws, etc. (H)
Jack, fixed part of a connector pair, header (J)
Relay (K)
Inductor, Coil, Ferrite bead (L)
Loudspeaker, Buzzer (LS)
Motor (M)
Microphone (MK)
Plug, moveable part of a connector pair (P)
Transistor (Q)
Resistor (R)
Thermistor (RT)
Varistor (RV)
Switch (S)
Transformer (T)
Integrated Circuit (IC)
Crystal, Oscillator (Y)
Zender diode (Z)
Other (please specifiy)
Footprint
This usually does not apply to → breakout boards.
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LM2596 Converter Buck Step Down Regulator Power Module 4-40 to 1.25-30V 3A
LM2596 Converter Buck Step Down Regulator Power Module 4-40 to 1.25-30V 3A
me need model this help me pls
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Installing AppImage for Fritzing 1.0.2
Do not know if this is the right place to ask an installing software question so moderator feel free to move it to the right thread.
I want to download (and pay for) the latest fritzing software but hesitate to do so because:
- I am running a linux O.S. other than Ubuntu : PCLinuxOS.
- Extra software must be downloaded and installed : libfuse2 but I do not know if all linux O.S. systems have to use this or just Ubuntu.
When I hoovering over “apt install libfuse2” with my mouse I notice that that link is dead.
Can somebody please give me some more info about this?
Thanks in advance. Joe.
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Impossible mini PCB
Some of the features of DIYLC in a future wish list - maybe …
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Impossible mini PCB
Hello and thank you for your answers.
In the result I want to obtain, the distances between J1 and J3, on the one hand, and J1 and J2 on the other hand, are 1/10th of an inch. Exactly as in the first image in my post above (4 rows separated by 1/10th of an inch and 4 columns separated by 1/10th of an inch).
The microMerlin solution is interesting and perfectly meets the need for the adapter.
However, I am still listening for a solution to obtain a g-code in order to engrave a pcb with a cnc.
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Simple Solenoid lock
Can I get the part like the one in the picture? Thanks
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Simple Solenoid lock
(post deleted by author)
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Installing AppImage for Fritzing 1.0.2
Hi,
FUSE is a requirement for AppImages (more technical details here: FUSE · AppImage/AppImageKit Wiki · GitHub).
However, if you can’t install FUSE, you can start it using the --appimage-extract-and-run parameter. For the current version 1.0.2, this would look like this:
./fritzing-1.0.2-l1901-dbdbe34c-qt6.AppImage --appimage-extract-and-run
Alternatively, you can extract the AppImage using:
./fritzing-1.0.2-l1901-dbdbe34c-qt6.AppImage --appimage-extract
and then run the start script in the generated squashfs-root folder:
cd squashfs-root
./AppRun
I haven’t tested this with PCLinuxOS, but in theory it should work.
Greetings,
Josh
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Impossible mini PCB
OK, that is a trivial change to the supplied .fzz like this. In turn the gerbers generated by that can be converted to g-code by the usual methods (there are instructions available in the forums search for g-code should find them.)
esp01-adapter-1.fzz (2.7 KB)
gerber output from above displayed in gerbv.
as I said trivial (and you should be able to do that for yourself!)
Peter
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WCS1800 hall current sensor board
The datasheet for the sensor isn’t what is needed. The website that describes the module, its physical dimensions and connections is what is required to make a part (and isn’t present.) A web site like this is required (although it is still somewhat incomplete.)
Peter
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Simple Solenoid lock
As noted the parts available are listed in the post referenced above. Click on the post and it will come up with the part.
Peter
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