Is this what you need (or something different again, there seem to be a lot of varients of this)?
Peter
Is this what you need (or something different again, there seem to be a lot of varients of this)?
Peter
Thanks a lot Peter. I will go forward with what you gave me. I have also received some replies in element14 forum. you might like to see that too.
Since no one has answered I will try. I am no expert so someone may correct me.
It is rarely a bad idea to have a ground fill. It will carry away stray noise.
To create the ground fill you just need to right click on a connector or pad that is part of your V- (GND) net and select set as ground fill seed. If you have more than one circuit with separate V- (GND) nets then you will need to set at least one seed for each net. After that make sure both layers are set as clickable (or which ever layer you want the ground fill on if you only want it on one) then go to the Routing menu > Ground Fill > Ground Fill (Top and Bottom).
Once it is done creating the ground fill you will see some of the ground fill is yellow and some is red. This is supposed to show if the ground fill is connected to ground or not. Unfortunately it can show connected ones as unconnected so don't be too concerned. To fix ones you know are not connected you may be able to drag via's on to the board and connect those areas on one side to a connected plane on the other side.
You can also add via's around parts that need additional cooling but again be careful they are only on ground planes on both sides and do not intersect any traces other than ground traces.
If you place these via's before creating the ground fill Fritzing can leave a space around them.
You can also change Ground Fill Keepout, if you need more gap.
The red splotches in pads are connection points if you want to run traces.
I decided to reverse engineer a cheap TTP223 breakout board from China just because.
I had to create the TTP223 chip based on a generic SOT23-6 chip from the core parts. I didn't make any changes to the svgs, I just relabelled the pins and descriptions. This means the schematic is incorrect.
My board is slightly smaller than the ones I have from China and the order of pins is not the same (China = Vss Out Vcc) (Mine = Vss Vcc Out)
Feel free to use the part or the entire project just note I did not fill in any of the resistor or capacitor values.
Jumper Settings:
AB=00:Non-Latching - High TTL level ouput;
AB=01:Latching - High TTL level ouput;
AB=10:Non-Latching - Low TTL level ouput;
AB=11:Latching - Low TTL level ouput;
The LED in on when the output is High.
TTP223_Breakout.fzz (21.7 KB)
Hi, have an 8 pin 4 position rotary micro switch from Digikey, part: CKN10699-ND only switch in parts bin I could find is a 12 pin rotary. In parts editor I 1) cant figure out how to reduce it to 8 pins, 2) how to make it smaller, IT'S HUGE! Would really like to incorporate this switch in the PCB to make a timer for my grandkids. Is it possible?
Appreciate any help, thanks,
lasl
Its possible, just not necessarily easy. You would need to make a custom part for the switch by editing the svg files for the 12 position switch and make it smaller (at least in pcb). Pointers to a couple of tutorials on parts making:
Peter
Hi. I have a friend who is engineer working in a electronic circuit board company. They are over 20 years experience in this industry, maybe can help you. Their site: www.pcbgogo.com/j click and send your file in the systerm, there will be professional staff response you soon. Try it, good luck~
Thank you for the reply. Watched all the videos and realized it is too involved and difficult for me. Will try to figure out something else.
appreciate your help,
lasl
Yes if you aren't already familiar with an svg editor it is a fair learning curve. However once you are familiar it gets easier, so try this part and see if it does what you need. I did the pcb section of this from the data sheet and without a part on hand so before committing to a board I'd advise printing a copy of the pcb at 1:1 and checking the layout against a real part to see that it is correct. The pads thickness is a little less than usual because the normal 20 thou pads don't have enough clearance. As a result I suspect you may need a fab house to cut the boards doing your own may not work as the switch pads are around a 10 thou clearance. The pad with the square is pin 0 (the common pin) and the one to its right is pin 1. The switch may be the other way as the data sheet doesn't say if the pcb layout is component side (as I assumed) or solder side, so that is also something to check (it is easy for me to flip the pads if it is wrong). Breadboard view is reduced to about twice the size of the real part.
Rotary_Switch_4x1.fzpz (6.7 KB)
Peter
Hallo vanepp,
is a cool tipp.
Thanks.
Hi Roy, yes, I agree with you. Keywords can save our time and fast bring us to the pages what we want. if you search url or website also is ok. a more big word show to you ~
Regards
Claire
http://www.pcbgogo.com/j
Cheap RFID reader for 125 kHz tags.
I ask for lenience, this is my first fritzing part.
RDM6300.fzpz (21.2 KB)I ask for leniency, this is only my second fritzing part.
USB converter CP2102.fzpz (15.2 KB)Hello everyone,
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Thanks
Keep sharing
Nobody will have a go at you for making parts, in fact we applaud you, but we will tell you what we see because we want people to get better.
for - RDM6300.fzpz (21.2 KB)
In the PCB you need to delete the black rings in the pads "path12631"
You need a group called "silkscreen" with a black rectangle outlining the size of the part.
Level with the "silkscreen" group you need a "copper1" group where you put "copper0" inside. You need copper0(bottom copper) inside copper1(top copper) for 2 layer boards.
You can export the gerbers and load them into free Gerbv to see what production will be like.
WOW, you are amazing! it brought a hugh smile to my face when I saw them smiling!
thank you so much Peter,
lasl
Thanks very much again, already sent for production. part size is perfect, pin size is same as LED pin. The connection hole in your part seems to be larger than the LED hole size so it should fit. The layout is correct, pin#1 is at 1 o'clock on the PCB!. Curious though, had seen all the videos by Old Grey on parts creation and just reread fritzig help on new parts editor, to gain some insight on this, went to "edit (your) part"-"connections" added a pin 5 then "PCB"-clicked #5 - "select graphic" all I get are long crosshairs! It doesn't choose the pin as a connection. There is a tiny white dot in the center of the connection and when I now click pin #5 again a small black circle surrounds it. Do I have to go into Inkscape to do it? One would think if "edit-parts" allows you to get crosshairs and position it over the connector it would also allow you to choose it and make it active.
thanks again can't wait for the board to come, couldn't have done it without you!
Les
By and large a good part only a few corrections :
In schematic, the pins are not quite on the .1 in grid so I moved them down so they are and adjusted the labels to match. Assuming you are using Inkscape (as I am) then after you save the svg you need to edit the svg with a text editor and remove all the px on font size (I remove all of them). If you don't and the part is edited in parts editor the font size gets set to 0 and the text becomes unreadable. This should be done for all the svgs.
In PCB as in your first part, copper0 and silkscreen are missing (I also ungrouped everything and then regroup again but that isn't strictly necessary). I added the copper0 group and silkscreen and put a rectangle (which will be the incorrect size as I don't have a board) around where the board edge would be. You need to change the size of the rectangle to match the physical size of the board and add in a bump for the USB connector so if someone put this on a board they know where the edges of the board are for placing other parts (the USB connector is less important as it will likely be on the edge of the board to allow the cable to connect, but it is nice to have it there)
USB converter CP2102_mod.fzpz (15.2 KB)
.
Peter
You are most welcome, for me it was about a 1/2 hour task but that is after months and months of learning about parts creation. Many times it is easier to make a part for someone than try and explain how to do it (although we do try and encourage people to make more parts).
This is probably because I set the 3 unused pads to noconn in the svgs, so yes you (or I if you need it for something) would need to modify the svg to make the unused pins in to real connectors again. Generally if you want to use parts editor you have to start with a part that has enough (or even more) connections than you need. I think it may be able to delete connections but I don't think it can add them or you may need to have the exact number of connections you need. I have never been able to make the connection selector in parts editor to work for me, so I tend to operate on the underlying files and svgs only using parts manager to properly register the created part with the Frtizing parts database and sometimes to do the metadata as I'm also lousy at html . The new parts editor isn't complete yet (and development is slow) so sometimes you have to access the underlying files to do things, and after a while I found it easier to do it all (or at least most of it) from there.
Peter