Thanks a lot Peter! Now it's working. I already had that code in the fzp file. I only exchange the pin code in breadboard svg with your example (https://github.com/OgreTransporter/fritzing-parts-extra/commit/1d6601821b7ee1f618527971b7b90269b0cd564a?diff=split).
Transporter
Thanks for that link, I really had no idea dual power was a requirement for anything, ever. This all must be done internally in the TR-808 or TR-909s.
I am glad you sent me that page, because I was quite confused by the schematic from Eric Archer, his schematic has some generic capacitors across to ground. I then looked at a PCB built by jmej and the board has two electrolytic caps to ground on the dual voltage.
I see the same pattern from the link you pointed to -> using electrolytic caps
Jmej
Yah, I couldn't get them to move either on a test file. I have used this process before and I'm sure it worked as advertised. It seems straight forward, you would think.
Maybe Vanepp or one of the others will have an answer for you.
I had that problem before, but I can't remember what I did. Maybe close it and reopen it.
You can upload the .fzz here with the 7th button and I can have a look at it.
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A work around in case there isn't a solution, would be to move the leds up 3 holes so the body of the led overlaps the IC and the wires are then below the body. That then obstructs the pins of the ICs, which may or may not be acceptable. I think (but don't know for sure) that wires may always be on top to make connections visible. If obstructing the pins isn't acceptable then I'd probably edit the led part and reduce the size of the led body far enough to suit. Here is what I mean with generic ics and only some of the wires present:
Peter
I checked my quarantined files and found no fritzing files. I deleted all the fritzing files, as you suggested. I downloaded a new copy of the fritzing program. I disconnected the internet. I unzipped the download and ran the .exe which installed fritzing. I opened the program, made a very simple schematic, and did a file save as. Windows file dialog opened, and then shortly after and get the message that the fritzing program is no longer running with the only option of quitting the porgram. same thing happens if I rerun the program, and select file open. All this occurred with the internet disconnected.
Don
i try to make it double face xml., but in this mode i can't get correct message when i import that in fritzing.what is wrong?help please.
i attach svg here:
The only thing I can think of to suggest is (if you are willing!) try running Friting as administrator. This sounds to me like a permission problem somewhere (combined with a Fritzing bug where it doesn't deal well with file errors). As administrator it should be able to write pretty much anywhere (which may or may not be desirable 
). If that works then we need to figure out what new file has been written and look at the permissions on where it is. The only other thing I can think of is to use the Microsoft trace program (which I have heard of but never used) to see if it can tell you what file it is trying to open when it fails (as I've never used it, I don't know if it can do this).
Peter
STEP 14.fzz (24.3 KB)
On an unrelated note, you likely want current limiting resistors (likely about 220 ohms) in series with the leds. As long as you use 74ls173s you may get away with it as is as there is a 100 ohm resistor to Vcc on the high side, although that may cause excessive current draw on the supply lines for the chip especially with all outputs high.
Peter
I think VAN is right about wires in BB view always being in front, i.e. so that you can always see the connector hole.
I think I vaguely remember a part on the other side of the PCB in PCB view not coming to the front, so it was something different.
In modular synths the power supply will be fixed to the case and shared between all the modules via a distribution bus. There's no point making a seperate power supply for each module.
The 808 is MAINS powered and has an internal (center-tapped) transformer which converts this down to some useful voltages.
I strongly advise against using a VCT transformer as this is potentially LETHAL! (You could die if you make an error!!!)
Stick with the Adafruit split supply as this takes care of all the deadly bits for you..
When you build enough modules to exceed the 500mA per rail provided by the Adafruit PSU you can either buy another Adafruit supply and keep doing that or buy a nice modular synth case/psu like the Doepfer LC9 or a microZeus by tiptop audio http://www.tiptopaudio.com/zeusmicro.php.
There are a lot of cases to choose from that are factory made but obviously they cost a lot more than building your own.
I built mine for under £20 and it can provide 750mA on each rail (+12V rail and -12V rail)
Thanks for the replies everyone. I wasn't able to reply for about the last 30 hours because my account was under review for some reason. Anyway, I found a way to bring the LEDs to the front, but it's not reliable, and it doesn't seem to last once the program is closed and reopened. But for what I'm doing, that is sort of ok as I really just need the screenshot. Though I really wish it would last when I closed the program because I often have to go back to these files, make a change, and take a new screenshot.
Anyway, what I found was that if I select all the LEDs by shift clicking them one at a time, and then I delete them, and then press CTRL+Z to undo, it will place the LEDs on top of the wires. But ... #1. it doesn't always work. I haven't yet figured out what conditions trigger it. #2. When it does work, it doesn't always put all the LEDs on top. Sometimes I'll see that there are still 1 or 2 that appear under a wire.
But when it does work.... I get this...
Finally, I'll include this link to a PDF I'm working on (1 of many) that shows what I'm doing. As you can see in the PDF, all of this breadboard stuff is being done in an iterative way as to explain a process.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-6ynjm4RtfudnNrRTFOWGNOUVE
This is INA125P Instrumentation Amplifier as defined by Texas Instruments (http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ina125.pdf).
ina125P.fzpz (9.7 KB)
Marino
Hey thank you Noodle, Peter, Oldgrey.
I tinkered a while with this circuit using the 9V batteries in series and an Arduino to provide a trigger from pin 13 so I can see the LED flash when it triggers. It currently produces a loud "click". Definitely sounds like the initial fast attack pop at the start of the 808 bass kick. From what I read, using 9V batteries will only produce this kind of click. So I am waiting for the Adafruit power supply although the DC/DC power supply from Murata looks very good.
I noticed the batteries got very hot rather quickly and lost charge fast.
From what Eric Archer mentioned, the Accent needs to be tied to (+), I am sending a short 5V pulse from the Arduino.
Here are some references for what is necessary for this circuit to work:
Electro-music.com forum thread about this circuit
Original Web Site (archive of Ericarcher.net)
Here is what Eric Archer wrote about the device:
Trigger and Accent inputs - Each drum has a TRIGGER and ACCENT input. In the 808, the accent input is a global signal that boosts the level of all drums when requested (TTBOMK). In my clone, I just have a potentiometer set up as a voltage divider to deliver a constant voltage to the ACC input. It is basically a volume control in this arrangement. The trigger inputs are a little more tricky; if you are driving the drums with a logic circuit, you'll need a little bit of trigger generator glue inbetween. Basically this lets the energy of the positive transition thru to trigger the drums, and shaves off the negative edge. If you omit the trigger generator, the drums sound weird b/c they will also trigger on the negative edge, with a different and weaker tone, reduced decay time weird.
Youll need a split power supply to make these circuits work. You can use +/-12VDC or +/-15VDC. In a pinch you can make a +/-9VDC supply with two 9V batteries and a pair of battery snaps. Or you can adapt an old PC power supply to make a +/-12VDC bench power supply. Look for instructions on how to hack a PC supply on the net.
Or do what I did: I found that the miniature muRata NDTD0515C DC-DC converter works nicely, boosting juice from a cheap wallwart up to nice +/- 15VDC bipolar power.
From a forum entry:
i've just finished building this circuit and have some results to share, for what they're worth.
i've run the circuit at 9V, 12V, and 15V and can say that the sine/click balance is directly proportional to the source voltage.
at 9V the sound is exactly like the samples posted above where the click was by far the most predominant element.
at 12V the sound is very, very close to authentic.
at 15V the sound is as close to owning an 808 as i'll ever get!
I will post results once I have the circuit connected to the 12V+/- power supply and I'll post the breadboard.
Um, not really (unless you have uploaded the incorrect file). Your part is an 8 pin dip where the real device is 16pin, and the schematic is for a attiny13 not the instrumentation amp (even if it only had the pins labeled as opposed to the internal drawing as would be desirable).
Peter
I don't think that should be happening. If you have a multimeter or amp meter measure the current the circuit is taking. Hot and fast charge loss likely indicates you have a short across the power supply somewhere. Op amps don't usually draw all that much current unless you they are driving a low impedance load and I don't think this one is so you are likely looking at a wiring error of some kind.
If it likes 15V best, then the Murata (although a bit pricey) is a good bet. A cheaper alternative would be 2 15V regulated wall warts (with the disadvantage of needing 2 power plugs)
Peter
