Does anyone knows, is it possible to change default color of
1) copper top & bottom layer ?
2) highlighting of other connected elements (when hold right mouse button on element, by default it's yellow) ?
I haven't found color changing option anywhere in preferences
As far as I know you can't change colour in PCB view.
You can turn off some layers in View.
The major problem is that the copper fill makes it hard to see. I usually don't copper fill until the very end, and not half the PCB because it easier doing the whole thing, but you can remove copper fill to see better. The only problem is putting it back on half the PCB.
Hello all,
For a project I used a small joystick 5 way switch break-out board (Aliexpress link)
I want to put everything on the PCB and a bigger 5 way switch.
So I want to put the following 5 way switch on the PCB in fritzing:
5 Direction way Tact Switch SMD 6 Pin 10*10*9mm for Navigation (AliExpress link)
Find below an image of the button and pinout.
I cannot find this part in Fritzing and cannot find it posted on this forum.
Can someone please help me make this 6 pad SMD tactile switch? (only need PCB view)
And or point me to a good tutorial so that I can learn it?
Many thanks in advance,
Bou
pinout:
1. Common
2. Left
3. Center
4. Up
5. Right
6. Down
FYI, I use this 'joystick' to navigate through a menu on an arduino and use 5 ports to read it. However you could give all the 5 ways different resistors and use 1 analoge port on the arduino to navigate.
FYI 2, I use Fritzing to design PCBs to make my project look professional! Eagle was difficult, but Fritzing saved my life!
When I drag Arduino on to my PCB, it automatically creates holes for me, right?
Yes exactly.
This is actually easy. Search in Fritzing for "copper fill blocker" and you get a part that allows you to cover any area you do not want copper before doing copper/ground fill.
I would also agree that deleting the fill until just before export is the best way to deal with this problem. As well as making unwanted layers not visible.
I have been using Fritzing since the 0.9.3b release and up until today I had never clicked on any of the links in the help menu. It turns out there are at least two very useful links in that menu. The first one is "Parts Editor Help" which explains a lot if not all of the features like internal connections, moving connection points, clicking on background elements and many more. The second one is the "Tips, Tricks and Shortcuts" which has many good tips like copper blocker, constraining paths and many more.
I wish I had read these a long time ago. I have figured out most of the stuff on my own the hard way but reading this may have saved me a lot of time.
Created an image for breadboard view and schematic.
That was the easy bit. Now trying to figure out how to edit an existing part to make this one, so any help gratefully received.
So if your card doesn't register in the PC, what makes you think it will register with an Arduino?
Fire up a linux distro..
IE Debian or a spin off say Ubuntu
sudo fdisk -l
@sublimeartistry it does matter if the PC recognizes the card or not. See it could be recognized yet partition is bad. This is a recoverable situation. BUT from the sounds of it.... THIS SD card is dead. That most likely means it's beyond recovery 
USING fdisk, do you see the card listed??
If so you can also use
sudo testdisk
IF the disk registers, you can attempt to recover the partition..
You are wasting your time with that Arduino route. Why? I used to do data recovery for a living.... IF the SD card is dead, well it's dead. More time then its worth. What is the lesson? Take a backup of your files.... OR be okay with loosing them. I will always suggest a good backup for anyone not doing it. If even monthly. You'll surely loose less data.
Because unlike the PC or linux which access the card via USB (which looks to need a FAT file system) his Arduino solution is using spi to read individual blocks from the SD card. Doesn't care about the fat file system. He already knows he can read at least some of the blocks (probably not all) on the Arduino, he just needs to get the data in to usable format via python. It may be easiest to find a python 2.7 version (or change
change the line
to
(which if both versions are in fact present may run 2.7 for him).
Peter
Realize all that... Infact, fiddled around with this on a bad card. On with my day. BUT I do wish you guys good luck playing around.
If you upload you breadboard svg (you need to rename it from .svg to .fzpz because svg upload is usually broken, then upload via 7th icon from the left in the reply menu) I'll make a part. The breadboard view is the most work.
Peter
Thank you for all the input.
Can anyone who is fluent with arduino make the files closed fix because I would not like to get stuck in middle of recovery the file is sd_recovery_files.ino
available at github in my first post
bug description github.com/tiefpunkt/arduino_sd_recovery/issues/1
Thank you, this would be very helpful for everyone. So far I found nobody to fix the code, and I'm too stupid to do it myself.
This is going to sound weird, but I've had an idea.
1 - Place another blank PCB the same size to the right of the original PCB, and adjust the y to the same as the original and the x to a round number offset.
2 - Then select Routing/Select All Copper Fill, and change x to the round number offset of the new PCB.
3 - Fix the traces
4 - Again select Routing/Select All Copper Fill, and reduce x by the offset it was moved the first time.
When you look at the gerbers - I use free Gerbv - it will show you exactly what the PCB will have. It even has a drill.txt.
OK done. As always you should print out the footprint and check it against a real part before ordering a board. The schematic (copied from the standard battery) is a little off but it matches all the rest in core .
18650 battery holder.fzpz (11.6 KB)
Peter
Where is this link?
I waste too much time looking for datasheets and never know if it's the right one because I don't have the part.
There is a toshiba data sheet available for it. The footprint is a bit sparse but I'll make something ...
edit: As always you need to verify the footprint before ordering boards but this should do what you want.
tlp185.fzpz (7.2 KB)
Peter
Just for your information.
You would put a 2 pin header in a FZ view, because the holder is 2 pin, and save that as a new part. Then you would Edit that part and add the svgs to the views, assign pins, add Meta, and save it.
