Looks like the part doesn’t have constant #ing and might be confusing, so I think you have to fix the part.
Right-click the 7-seg and Edit
Go to BB view and click C in the table
Now go to PCB view.
See how a different pin is highlighted.
The trick with auto routes is that you never use auto route, you manually route. Pros don’t really use AR either.
Can you see the difference with my manual routing.
Thank you Old Grey,
This is the datashet:
http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/20131/POINN/TIC106D.html
General SCR TO220 - you can add the specific part# in Inspector if you want.
v1 - SCR TO220 - SCR.fzpz (8.8 KB)
Hello,
I’m already a user of arduino and IOT devices but making a pcb is new for me.
I tried to make a small pcb for my IOT system.
It contains a ESP8266-01, DHT22, LDR (includes 10K resistor) and reset button.
Power supply = 9V with 2 voltage regulators: 5V and 3,3V
Is there somebody who wants to help me by checking my first PCB design and give me feedback?
Timo
LDR ESP8266 PCB.fzz (25.6 KB)
The PCB routing looks good but I can not see any reason why you would have both a 5V regulator and a 3.3V regulator. Further more you have the 5V regulator output going into a voltage divider made up of a resistor and your LDR. If the ESP-01 had a Analog input I could see you reading the value but it does not have any Analog inputs so all you are doing is holding the GPIO high all the time unless your LDR’s resistance goes below 5k and then it may cause the voltage to go low enough to trigger a low input. But again I can not see why you would be running it off 5V rather than the 3.3v. Maybe if I understood what you were trying to achieve it would make more sense.
Opps I made a mistake with the SCH view. I made the leg connects a tiny red dot on the end when the leg should be all red - easier to see if it’s not connected -. So right-click remove the part from MINE bin and reload the new v1.1 part above.
1 use the 5V for all of my sensors on the board. (currently only 2 but maybe in future) and 3.3 for the ESP-01.
I was using ESP-12 at first but after some trouble i decided to choose ESP-01. did’t noticed that version doesn’t have Analog input so thats just a stupid mistake that i made 
Are there no options to sent analog data through ESP-01?
What is the main difference between 01 and 12 in this case?
I found I had recently emailed it to someone and that copy loaded.
Maybe I will look at the differences to see what FZ did to the file.
You currently have two sensors, 1 being the LDR which would be fine running off 3.3v and your Humidity sensor which is also fine to run off 3.3v so unless you know you must have a 5v source I think you would be safe with only the 3.3v regulator. A lot of 5v stuff runs off 3.3v which also keeps the signal at 3.3v for the mcu (esp8266’s are 5v tolerant so not a big worry but others like teensy are not).
If you are really brave you can solder to the pads along the edge of the actual esp8266 chip but in all reality it is not worth it. I would recommend an ESP-12(any variant) but then you have to be comfortable soldering the SMD pads which are fairly close together.
Just more pins and the 1 analog input.
If you want to have lots of analog inputs you could look at an ESP32-wroom as it can use almost any pin as an analog input, pwm output etc. But the pads on the ESP32-wroom are even closer together and very hard to solder even with experience.
Your last choice would be to use more hardware. One possible way would be to use something like an Arduino Mini to read all the sensors and then send the data via the esp-01.
Personally I would use the ESP12.
Thanks Old Gray! it will be usefull for my Hamradio projects!
Thank you, but I don’t see the new v1.1
It’s 3 posts up in the same place - v1.1 - SCR TO220.
It has the same name, and the only difference is that the legs in SCH are full red not just the tips so you can see it go from red to green when it’s connected more easily.
i switched to ESP-01 because of the SMD.
But i already have 2 nodeMCU’s so i think i just solder a nodemcu on my pcb.
Sorry, but I still see only red tips.
I downloaded that file and imported it and the pins are red for their entire length, so you probably still have the old part in the bin. It’s not important as it’s cosmetic and will still work.
Thank you for your patience,
I am totally new to this software and know almost nothing of electronics!
could you check if i connected LDR and DHT correct?NODEMCU IOT.fzz (28.1 KB)
Your only ground connection to the NodeMCU board is through the button which is not the best idea. You should have at least one trace connecting it directly. Even if it’s just putting a trace between the pins on the button.
Is there a reason why you have a 10k pullup on the humidity sensor that you did not have on the last version?
Now assuming that the NodeMCU part you used is labelled correctly I think you have everything connected to the correct locations.
With all of that said I would not use that NodeMCU part because of how small the rings are around the pins. I would also not route any of the traces between the pins either. If you move the NodeMCU board to the left and move all the parts from the left to the right you will have only 4 traces to route across the PCB instead of 15 which means you will have plenty of room to route them around the ends.
The last thing is GPIO16 (NodeMCU D0) is a special pin and may cause board resets if you try and use it.
I was informed there is a parts update. After a long time the parts update had downloaded, but had not completed, and fritzing appeared to be hung. I had to reboot the computer. Now Fritzing just hangs after opening up (“Not responding” - using about 20% cpu, but apparently not doing anything)
…
Should not have hung. Should display any progress so we know if it is actually doing something, and regular progress updates would mean Windows would not think it is not responding. But… how do I now cure the hang? 
…
fritzing.0.9.3b.64.pc
Windows 10 1803 (Build 17666.1000)
…
Please also attach any files that help explaining this problem
