EL84-Supply-80V.fzz (84.0 KB)
Yes, I am clicking on a component when that “forbidden sign” appears. I cannot show this via a printscreen because that sign does not appear on the resulting picture.
But perhaps if you open my pcb design and then click on a component perhaps you can reproduce this also.
For me both Windows and Linux (Ubuntu 18.04 lts) with Fritzing installed from the files on Fritzing.org acts as expected. If I click on a part in pcb view it selects ( a dotted line around the edge to indicate it is selected, no forbidden symbol). I’d suggest moving the two user directories aside and downloading the bz2 file from the Fritzing site, and untar it and run Fritzing from there and see if it reacts the same. If it doesn’t then it is something in the install file isn’t correct somehow, if it does then somethere is something strange in your system.
Peter
I was thinking of a project to build a small sugar rocket, but I want it to have electronics inside, maybe a guiding system using arduino. So I saw on the instructables website a guy giving a hint and showing his design, so I used as a basis the components he used and I modified many things to fit in, LINK HERE. I made the design and wanted to know if you guys that are experts in PCB could give me a hint as to how the board is, I’ll redo the code I copied from the guy to fit the modifications. Project here for anyone that want’s to see or use it GuidanceSystem.fzz (56.4 KB) (OBS: The measurements of the PCB are to fit in a tube of 2.5cm of radius)
While I’m not a pcb expert, the only thing I see which may be a problem is the buzzer. Both it and the nano are showing as top of board (the gyro is showing bottom where it will miss the nano). I think you want the buzzer to be bottom as well (since it appears to be polarized, although I don’t think most of them care). At present it will be blocked by the nano on the top of the board, but it should be able to miss the gyro on the other side. Moving it to the bottom means you need to reroute its traces or rotate it 180 degrees after moving it to the bottom (probably the easy solution as then the traces remain as is). Other than that it passes DRC and the gerbers look fine in gerbv.
Peter
DTMF MT8870 Decoder.fzpz (21.3 KB)
January 9, 2019 4:16 AM (Europe: Paris), January 8, 2019 7:16 PM (America: Los Angeles)
Not a bad job, but a few problems. Most notably you are missing copper0 (as well as layerIds in breadboard and schematic) which means your part will only accept traces on the top layer of a two layer board. As well you have only pins no terminal Ids in schematic which I also corrected. The lack of breadboard and schematic layerIds means the part won’t export as an svg file (that is the only thing I know of that breaks). Here is a new part (so you can load it along side the old part if you wish) that corrects all the problems I saw:
DTMF MT8870 Decoder_improved.fzpz (28.5 KB)
Feel free to ask questions about what was done and why if you have them.
Peter
Hi peter, thanks very much for the reply! yeah i forgot to put the buzzer on the bottom layer of the board, but it was just a mistake i’ll fix it, and if the Gerber view is looking good it’s all right then.
You can use my content business. It is free:
This is the symbol I mean which pops up when I click on a component when I want to use it and it is called a “cancel”, or “right to cancel” symbol:
You see that when you are holding a part over the parts bin it came out of because it is telling you that it can not add that part to the bin you are hovering over since it already exists in that bin. If you move the part to the PCB/Schematic/Breadboard it goes away. If you try moving the part to a different bin the symbol goes away. It only shows up when you are trying to do something that it thinks you should not be doing.
Thank you sublimeartistry for you explanation. “Problem” solved!
I wasn’t aware of this because the last weeks I did not need any extra component.
Was only busy arranging/moving the existing components on my newly created pcb.
Must have completely overlooked this.
How can I adjust the length of a jumper? I have managed to do this once but completely forgot how I did this.
Thanks in advance.
You click-n-hold the end of the jumper and drag. The outline part that goes dark when you hover over it, not the pad.
Thanks Old_Grey, that worked. I tried this also earlier but for some mysterious reason that did not have any effect but now it does.
Thank you. I am a new user and I am learning. I did it in CorelDraw and really had not understood which part I should put on that layer and also what name to put on the layer.
(I’m Brazilian and I used google translate)
Well welcome aboard, you did a good job over all. Parts creation is unfortunately poorly documented so mostly you learn by trying and asking questions here. The part file format document available here gives good information on layers (although there are lots of subtle parts that are not in there too):
I have a python script (python 3 only so far) available here:
which will tell you a number of things that it finds wrong (which it will flag as errors) and unusual and thus possibly wrong (flagged as warnings), but it assumes a fairly good knowledge of the format of the underlying files and thus isn’t as clear as it might be. As I said the main problem with your part was the lack of the copper0 layer in pcb. That makes the part only appear on one side of the board (which is correct for SMD parts but not through hole like this one). The rest of the stuff isn’t as serious although it is desirable to have it correct. Feel free to post more parts and one or another of us will point out problems we see. The more people making new parts the better.
Peter
Hi there,
I have searched for the parts of multiple MKR boards but could not find them anywhere, Arduino has images of the board files but they do not have them as Fritzing files. The fallowing boards I would need.
I have no experience in making them myself, and so I was wondering if anyone would have the parts or be able to make them.
Hi,
I made DHT11 part. It is based on existing RHT part. I have installed Fritzig today because I’m starting with Arduino, so quality of this work can be lower 
All suggestions to improve my work are welcomed!
Thank You.
Humidity and Temperature Sensor DHT11.fzpz (7.6 KB)
J.
A google search on “fritzing part Arduino MKR GSM” and “fritzing part Arduino MKR Zero” appears to turn up two out of three:
I don’t see a part for the fpga card so far though.
Peter
Probably the text size in the SCH view.
