I've build new parts: https://github.com/OgreTransporter/fritzing-parts-extra
Transporter
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NodeMcu V3 parts library
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Rs485 modul (.fzp or .fzpz file)
It looks like your upload didn't work (if you tried to upload the svg, that is broken in the forums and you need to rename it from pcb.svg to pcb.fzpz then upload the fzpz which does work and tell us that it is really an svg). Starting from the pcb svg in your first upload, in order to create the order Old_Grey specified above (and assuming Inkscape as the editor!) in xml editor select copper0. Now in the object tab on the top tool bar click group. For me that creates a new group in xml editor (called g3625 in my case). Now select that group and in xml editor and change the id to copper1 and set it. Now it should look like the display above with copper1 then copper0 as a group under it and you should be fine. For the silkscreen it looks like the start of it is in g189 and g196 but they are in copper0 rather than silkscreen (and two sides are missing). So select g189 in xml editor and click unindent node twice (which will move that group in to root). Now change the id to silkscreen. Now select g196 and again click unindent node twice to get it in to group root then move it down one position with the down arrow on the xml editor tool bar so it is below the silkscreen group then click the indent node button to move it in to the silkscreen group. At the end of this you should have a group silkscreen with g191 and g196 under it. Now you need to add two more lines to make the other two edges of the board outline on silkscreen (and change the line color to black) and adjust the size of the lines to reflect the size of the actual board outline and pcb should be done. The schematic svg needs to be lined up to the .1 grid and have rectangles added for connectorxterminal on all the pins and you should be away.
Peter
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MCP23017 i2c 16gpio
Your english is understandable which is all thats important 
, look at my answer in the RS 485 part and if that doesn't help feel free to ask again. Parts creation is a complex process and you are doing fairly well already but it takes experience and asking lots of questions (I certainly did when I started ) to figure it out. One thing that helps is to start your part from a generic IC from the core parts bin. Use inspector to set the number of pins your final part needs and then use parts editor to create a new part and export it then change the resulting svgs. The correct groups and connectors in all the files will be created by the export process which helps a lot until you learn what all the various groups need to look like. I usually start that way even though I now know what the group need to look like and could do it from scratch if I needed to.
Peter
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Repetitive downloads don't work on Win10
Wait. It is checking for updates and downloading them. It can take a few minutes depending on your system. On linux its about 1 minute but I saw a friend with Win10 open his and it took 10 minutes or so.
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Repetitive downloads don't work on Win10
There are a couple of possibilities: by freeze does Windows say that Fritzing is not responding and offer to close it, or is it just not doing anything? If it isn't apparantly doing anything, just wait, it goes to github to do an update of the parts library without any progress bar or other indication and sometimes that takes 5 minutes or more before completing. If the not responding message comes up you may have a corrupted data base file in which case deleting or renaming these two directories may clear the problem. There was one report lately from a Win10 user that Fritzing froze on file open that I don't think we every found a cure for, hopefully this isn't your case and the fix below helps.
There are two user directories (with your parts and the parts database) which don't get touched during an install (to not affect your sketchs during upgrades). On Windows they are in
c:\users\username\AppData\Fritzing\roaming\Fritzing (which is a hidden directory so you need to enable hidden directories in explorer) and
c:\Users\username\My Documents\Fritzing (where username is your windows id)
If you don't have any parts or sketches you want to keep you can just delete those two directories and Fritzing will receate them, or you can move them aside by renaming them if you wan to keep something in them.
Peter
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NodeMcu V3 parts library
Over all not a bad job, but a few problems ( illustrated via extra.fzz below):
Breadboard:
Capacitive moisture sensor: you may want to add a connectorxterminal definition to the connector in the breadboard svg and move it to the edge of the connector so the wires terminate on the edge of the board instead of the middle of the pin as they do now although it is OK as it is now too. Otherwise breadboard looks fine.
Schematic:
Most of the parts are either lacking a connectorxterminal definition or it is incorrect (such as being a group rather than a rectangle). That is what is causing the lines connecting at an angle to connect in the middle of the pin instead of the outside edge as they should. If you can't figure out how to correct this, post and I'll look at the svgs and post the solution. The soil moisture sensor has correct terminals (the lines terminate at the edge as they should) but the "A" pin should be moved so it aligns with the .1 in grid for better readablility. The DS18B20 pins need to be moved a bit so that they align with the .1 grid, the out pin has a correct terminal definition but the power pins don't appear to. I'm not sure why there are extra rats nest lines on the nodeCPU ground that may have been a problem on my part somehow (it usually indicates corruption in the parts database file due to Fritzing bugs) and they all appear to lack terminal definitions.
PCB looks fine (I didn't export the gerbers and check drill hole sizes but presumably they are correct).
extra.fzz (87.3 KB)
Peter
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Repetitive downloads don't work on Win10
Hello Vanepp - yuo were on the spot right. I got the "..does not respond ... wait ... shut down..." message. And of course I shut down the process.
Following your advice, now I just waited and let it go. It downloaded a lot and now it works. It just had a problem with the latest database and that gave an error at 100%. I'll check that tomorrow. Now it is time to hit the sack. Thanks for your help.
Regards,
Henk
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Repetitive downloads don't work on Win10
Thanks! Waiting is the keyword. Pity there is no progress indication, that would make my question unnessecary.
Regards,
Henk
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Rs485 modul (.fzp or .fzpz file)
(post withdrawn by author, will be automatically deleted in 24 hours unless flagged)
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Rs485 modul (.fzp or .fzpz file)
upload was fine, i check again...
if you see my last post on top you see 4 very tiny yellow dots on top of word "here attached"...
click that with right click of mouse and use "save image as" option on your browser.
@Old_grey i try your suggestion, and no error when import, but using the part they not have both layer...
if you can create it, do it! i'll stay behind if i can't figure it out. thanks.
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Rs485 modul (.fzp or .fzpz file)
Ah! right you are, when I right clicked on the dots I indeed got an svg. Its possible we have been just missing what it does with svg files all this time. Learned something new again! With the svg in hand (or at least in Inkscape) I see copper0 is in the wrong place. g4465 has copper0 under it and copper1 is under g4455 and you have duplicate pads (you only need one set with the proper grouping). To fix it in xml editor click on g4465 and hit delete. That will delete everything under g4465 including copper1 and all the extra circles. Now if you click on g4454 in xml editor and change its Id to copper1 and set you will have the correct copper configuration and it should now work. Your silkscreen looks to be correct now, (if you like you could do an ungroup after selecting g4476 to move silkscreen to root with the coppers, but it should still work as is just fine). With copper0 as a subgroup of copper1 Fritzing knows to copy the connectors to both copper0 and copper1 in the same position so you don't have to worry about getting both pads properly aligned. You may want to change the stroke:#ffffff in the style command for the silkscreen lines (which is the old standard of white, which doesn't show up in Inkscape to #000000 (black) which is the new standard and shows up in Inkscape. That should do it.
Peter
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A nifty li'l Onion Omega2
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NodeMcu V3 parts library
Hi Peter,
thanks a lot for your feedback. These are my first parts. I'll try to fix the connectors as fast as possible. I didn't check my parts in that way, but I'll Keep that in mind for new parts.
Transporter
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A nifty li'l Onion Omega2
Sure, I am busy going through the Fritzing standards guide to make sure it is done correctly, I'll upload it in the next day or so.
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Roland TR-808 Bass Kick Breadboard project
I am building a TR-808 Kick clone from the schematics provided by the service notes and adapted by Eric Archer on his site .
The schematic doesn't fit on one breadboard easily so I am trying to make it on two breadboards.
As I am new to electronics I have several questions specific to Frizzing :
- I am not sure where the power lines + /ground should be connected, the circuit wants 15VDC but I don't see it in the schematic, I only see a symbol like ( + ) +15V , which I assume means connect this leg of the component to the positive power rail (red power line) on the breadboard - is this right?
- There are numerous (GND) ground areas, are these to be connected directly to the negative (blue) power line on the breadboard. What I noticed is that these can either be connected to each other where the rats nest is defined or if I connected to the blue line on the breadboard. This seems to do the same thing since the "routed" number decrements by one.
- In Fritzing, the ratsnest lines, they often appear across a resistor, does this indicate that I need to put a pumper across the resistor pins?
- Is each color rats nest line a different trace - analogous to what is on the PCB that is in the PDF (GRND, PWR, TRACE1, TRACE2)?
- In Fritzing, the rats nest wires will jump around from one component to another if i move the component, is this basically Fritzing trying to find the easiest way to route the connection?
- Is there a mono audio in jack in Fritzing?
Thank you
J303
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NodeMcu V3 parts library
Good job for first parts, not many and not serious errors. I find that particular test (groups or single connectors connecting to all the pins) finds most of the common errors in parts and makes sure the connections are consistent across all three views. If you have problems feel free to ask, always happy to help people make parts (its what Fritzing needs to thrive ).
Peter
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Roland TR-808 Bass Kick Breadboard project
It appears to want (but doesn't show the source of) +15V, and -15V both referenced to ground. For your real circuit a couple of regulated 15V wall warts (one connected normally, the -15v one with the +15v wire connected to ground and the ground connection of the wall wart connected as -15v). There are other options available as well (such as a single 48V non regulated wall wart and 7815 and 7915 regulators to get the needed +-15 supplies) if you tell us what is important, such as size, cost, only one connection to the power line (the suggested solution needs 2 sockets which may not be acceptable) or something else. You are correct that the +15V supply will go to one power rail, ground to another power rail and -15V to a third power rail or you can just jumper the various pins that need power to each other (although using the busses is usually easier) any of those should work.
Correct a connection is a connection either via the ground bus or by direct wire between pins. Note that the rats nest lines take the shortest (not always best) direct route between pins.
As noted above the rats nest line is the shortest route between pins, it ignores things like resistors. What may be easiest is to click on the rats nest line then drag the resulting wire away from the direct route. That should show you exactly where the end points are. One potential difficulty is that if you click on a part of the rats nest that is over a connector you may accidentally make an unintended connection, so its best to check the schematic to make sure it agrees there should be a connection there. As well you are welcome to post your sketch .fzz file via the upload butting (7th from the left on the reply tool bar) and we can have a look at your sketch and provide advise and/or corrections. In general a rats nest line that appears to short a resistor is probably either an error or just passing over the resistor to a different connection (which creating and moving the wire should show).
Each ratsnest line is a different net which is the collection of all pins that should be connected together, so yes that will turn in to a trace in PCB view to connect all the pins together.
It is likely more the graphic program finding a "closer" (for its idea of close) route to get between the two connected points.
What size? 1/4 inch or one of the 3.5 mm types. There doesn't look to be one in core parts but I think there is one for at least the 1/4" type jacks available on the net (someone else is working on a midi project and needed 1/4" mono). If you get the size, a google search with a search term like "fritzing part mono jack" may turn up something. One last note about a Fritzing bug: it is best to make all your connections in one view (sounds like schematic would be it in this case) and then use the rats nest lines to route the other two views. If you make changes in more than one view the parts database sometimes gets corrupted and you get rats nest lines that shouldn't be there. The only solution to that is to start again which can be painful (which makes it a good idea to keep a copy of the project when it is complete in one view so you can at least restart there if you have to).
Peter
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Roland TR-808 Bass Drum Breadboard Project
I have attached the file, there is a TL072 dual that I downloaded from a fritzing github page. I couldn't get the TL072's components to separate nicely in the schematic, so it looks odd with a long lead but I tried to copy Eric Archer's schematic as closely as possible.
The part I am having issues with are the trigger in, the +/- rails and a battery, and too many jumpers. Something isn't quite right, there are way too many jumpers, I suspect the rats nest line rules may have been overly aggressive.
Here is one another group did: as you can see they tie the accent to +15V and they use a switch tied to +15V to give the initial pulse.
Paper PCB's Version
roland-tr-808-bass-kick2.fzz (86.9 KB)
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Roland TR-808 Bass Drum Breadboard Project
Eric Archer's (the one I am trying to build from)
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Roland TR-808 Bass Drum Breadboard Project
Original
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