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Repetitive downloads don't work on Win10

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Hello Peter

On my notebook (win10-64 bit) everything worked out fine. Gave it enough time and it was OK. Even "new database" was downloaded and installed.

My desktop pc (win10-32bit) finally loaded the program and installed it. However, it will not download the "new database" that it sees after checking for updates. I did remove the two folders, you mentioned.

Any ideas?

regards,
Henk


APA-102-2020 - the ultimate smd addressable led

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I've tried my version of footprint with apa102 - 2020, and hot air gun rework
some of them worked, convinced that footprint and schematics were right
and some of them failed, likely due to poor soldering skills ( and improper syringe paste) (and too high temp from gas-hot air gun)

Anyone still need this? i need some time to reorganize my board.

Repetitive downloads don't work on Win10

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This is a new failure again :slight_smile: , it is trying to make a network connection to github to get the updates, so checking that networking is OK would be a good bet, trying to access githun.com via the web browser to make sure you can get there for instance. If it doesn't hang (just doesn't update) you might try clicking Help->Check for updates in Fritzing as sometimes I've seen the automatic updates request not work (i.e. there are updates available, but they don't download til a manual check for updates.)

Peter

Roland TR-808 Bass Drum Breadboard Project

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Unfortunatly you look to have hit the fritzing bug and corrupted the parts database for this sketch. That is likely because of the connections made in pcb view and/or some wiring errors in breadboard view. The only known solution is to start again. Here are some of the things I see wrong and suggested solutions:

1) your op amp problem is because you aren't using an op amp with sub parts. I thought the generic dual op amp had sub parts but that doesn't appear to be correct. However the ADTL082 in core parts (which you can find by entering ADTL082 in the search field and hitting enter) does and has the same pin out as the tl072. What that means is that because of the sub parts you can move one section of the op amp around independent of the other in schematic as you want to to make the schematic identical to the original.

2) You need two power supplies, but have only used one in breadboard. That also has bearing on your battery question. While the schematic calls for +/-15V in practice the op amp will take anywhere between +/-5V and +/-18V. If you want to run off batteries (as opposed to a line operated power supply) and possibly even off a line operated supply such as a wall wart one of these is a good bet:

It is possible that the device that is supplying the trigger signal may also be able to supply 5V which would fix your power problems, if not there are some other suggestions below. This device takes 5V in (you still need to get regulated 5V either from the device providing the trigger, a regulated wall wart or from a 9V battery and a 7805 type regulator) but it will give you the +/- supply voltages (at 12V rather than 15V) that you need (the original schematic indicates that either +-/15 or +-12 is fine). The above is less than $2 with free shipping (but it takes a long time to come!). Another possibility is 2 9V batteries connected in series to give you +/-9V. Transistor bias resistors may need some tweaking or may not (I'd say try it as is first and see if it works :slight_smile: ). On the breadboard I'd use the top two rails for +15V and gnd and the lower 2 one for ground and the other for -15v and repeat that setup on the bottom breadboard and do the interconnections as you have but with 3 wires rathar than 2 as at present. You should first do the complete schematic and then save a copy of it as an fzz file in case of later problems so you can go back to that rather than start again as is probably needed this time. Complete all the connections in schematic first and then move on to breadboard (keep a copy of the current fzz file so you can copy the layout of the current breadboard when placing the components as that seems mostly fine) and then click on a rats nest line to create the wire and drag the resulting wire in to a neat route (I like to use straight lines and 90 degree bends but whatever works for you). You probably want a second phone jack to connect to the trigger input (and I think the current phone jack is connected wrong, in schematic it is connected to the output, in breadboard it is connected to the trigger input which will cause problems in the database as it shorts the trigger input to the output). Since you only need mono you may want to use the RCA jack instead (probably the third one which has a correct mono schematic). You may want to first post you finished schematic fzz and let us look it over and see if there are any problems before trying to make the breadboard. Don't make any connections in pcb (as they will reflect back in to the other two views and cause problems if they aren't correct!)

Peter

APA-102-2020 - the ultimate smd addressable led

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It will be worthwhile to post your foot print when you feel it is correct so it is available to anyone that wants to use these even if the original poster doesn't want them any more. The more parts we have the better :slight_smile: .

Peter

Scale box on toolbar

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I'm doing PCBs with over 100 components and I'm always changing the scale for different situations.

If you go through View/Set Grid Size/change #/OK it's minimum of 4 clicks, where as if it was a box on the screen you would only have to change #.

Maybe even a button starting with 0.025", and a left arrow that halves the value, and a right arrow the doubles the value.

Repetitive downloads don't work on Win10

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Good morning Peter
I opened Github in my browser and opened a few pages - no problem.
I opened Fritzing and clicked manual update:
- message: checking for updates;
- message: .. parts lib update avail...;
- clicked "update parts"
- response: "..not responding", just waited;
- response: Sorry, unable to download new parts.

Is the update suitable for a 32-bit OS?

regards, Henk

Global track thickness setting

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When making tracks on a SMD PCBs you always have to shrink every track individually, because the std 24mil is way too thick for such fine parts.

I also find the std track thickness of 24mil hard to move accurately because it obscures fine pads. so you have to create a trace, shrink it, and then move it, which is 3 steps, where as a global setting would only be 2 steps, saving time.


Repetitive downloads don't work on Win10

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I don't know the solution but as a work around you could copy your Fritzing user directory from your 64bit install to your 32bit machine.

Global track thickness setting

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I second this request. I rarely use over 16 mil and most of my traces are 8mil and would love if I could set the default width. Maybe even save the default width with each project.

Can't start fritzing on XP, Exception Processing Message C0000013 Parameters 75b3bf7c 4 75b3bf7c 75b3bf7c

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Steps I took that resulted in the problem:

Tried to start on any local disks

What I expected should have happened instead:

...

My version of Fritzing and my operating system:

fritzing.0.9.3b.32.pc, WINDOWS XP

Please also attach any files that help explaining this problem

Make image on mask PDF

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i have make a image on the pcb board layout how can it's be on at the PDF export (mask) it can be print out at any other but mask

APA-102-2020 - the ultimate smd addressable led

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nice to hear that :wink:
2020footprintforshare.fzz (28.1 KB)

the board inside is the footprint i tested and worked,
both the 5050 / 2020 were tested, with an Aduino as controller.
the pins (data/ clock/power/gnd) were shown as silkscreen texts
notice that they are pads, not a part,
if anyone knows how to group them up, that'll be good to use.

I wonder if the power/gnd pads can be smaller, or deleted, they easily shorted with a little much paste.

oh, the 2020/5050 apa102 LEDs were from taobao, or alibaba/China.
(Where actually they are packaged.)

Do I need ground fill and if so how do I do it?

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I have routed everything and it's kind of ready, this includes traces for ground as I figured I had to do this.

Now I'm trying to simplify and get a ground fill so there are fewer traces and vias.. But when I mark a few ground-connected vias and pads as 'ground fill seeds' and go to create a copper fill on one layer, I just get lots of islands of fill but nothing is connected to ground. Where am I going wrong?

( Also, the edges are rough and pixelated as though they are bitmaps rather than vectors. )

Make image on mask PDF

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By the sounds of it you are trying to make an exposed copper image. To do that you have to make a custom part which is not easy.


Do I need ground fill and if so how do I do it?

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Any islands that are overlapping the ground traces will be connected but show as not connected.

You said Copper fill and I just want to confirm you actually clicked ground fill not copper fill as copper fill will never connect to anything.

You only need to select one single pad or via that is part of the ground fill net. Fritzing follows that path and makes all the connected pads part of the ground fill.

Also note that ground fill will only be connected by small little tabs to the pads and holes. This is to make it possible to solder because if it was just solid the large copper area would take heat away fro the pad too quickly making the solder joint weak.

If none of this helped maybe upload a picture of a board after running ground fill.

Do I need ground fill and if so how do I do it?

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I used the function under the following menu path :
Routing > Ground Fill > Copper Fill (top)

It's just not doing it for me. Should I have not routed traces to the ground connections of my parts?

Roland TR-808 Bass Drum Breadboard Project

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Thank you Peter. I started to modify the original using the IC you provided. I didn't start from a blank breadboard, I copy and pasted the schematic so as to preserve the design. I deleted the breadboard so I can see the rats nest cables unhindered.
After having done this I still see a huge number of rats nest lines. Is this the bug you mentioned?

How did you create this file you uploaded? Did you use the existing components or did you have to recreate the schematic from a blank project in order for the file not to be corrupted?

Thank you for all your help, I hope to soon have a booming Bass Kick and that this will help others trying to learn percussion synthesis.

J303

Do I need ground fill and if so how do I do it?

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You do want the ground traces as without them Fritzing will complain and also there is a chance of something not being connected.

The issue seams to be with clicking copper fill not ground fill. It should be Routing menu > Ground Fill > Ground Fill (top) not Copper Fill (top)

Do I need ground fill and if so how do I do it?

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