Thanks a ton! Did you just create it ? How did you make the part so quickly ?
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Fritzing part for QF 40 pins
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Where to hire someone who can make a full service
Hi
Where should I start if I want to hire someone to make a full project ready to one click fabrication with all the needed files and electronic calculations.
from an idea to a finish and ready to use PCB print.
I would say with around 10-20 components.
Because I am noobs, so please be nice…
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Searching for ST7735B - 128x160 TFT LCD Display part
Thank you for making the part. I was looking for a copy of whatever had already been made.
if you need accurate mounting holes you would need to measure a real board and adjust the part to match
Yes, the pins should align with a standard breadboard. I’m not sure how to fix this. But again, I was looking for a copy of something that already existed out there somewhere. If making a new part is the next best thing, I’d need help to know how to “resize” this part to allow it to plug into a breadboard to be able to use it.
Thanks again
Mike
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Arduino Mega 2560 Shield v2.0
Hi mate, nice to hear that, the arduino mega shield v2.4 you designed was pretty good indeed. I tried to use it for the v2.0 one since it has similarities regarding header layout but I switched to fritzing arduino mega in order to make it fit correctly.
I did the other board parts as aesthetical as possible since I need it for my own university project. I couldn’t find the original .CAD files but doesn’t matter as I keep the grid spacing between them (except for the mega header connector).
As final opinnion, I have no idea about df board since I bought this shield from local store.
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Fritzing part for QF 40 pins
Once you get past the learning curve of making parts, it is reasonably easy to make parts. In this case I started from a generic 40pin dip, changed the metadata in parts editor then exported the part. That creates the connectors needed in all the views. Then I opened the pcb svg and added the smd pads then moved the connectors ids to the new pads and deleted the original pads. That doesn’t take all that much time if you know what you are doing.
Peter
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Searching for ST7735B - 128x160 TFT LCD Display part
The header pins are fine. They are standard .1 spacing and will fit breadboard just fine. They may not be in the correct place relative to the edge of the board because there is no data on where that should be, and the 3 mounting holes in the pcb are probably in the slightly wrong place and wrong size because again there is no data on where they should be or what size they should be. This is only important if you are making a pcb and need the mounting holes and connector pin locations to be accurate (the mounting holes if you are using them you would need to be accurate, but you can drag a hole in to the pcb view from the parts bin and set the holes where ever you like. This part should be functionally identical to the original (that doesn’t appear to be available) as far as Fritzing is concerned.
Peter
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Where to hire someone who can make a full service
This is likely to be quite expensive to do in this manner (and Fritzing may not be the appropriate tool to do it). I guess wait and see if anyone offers a price, or perhaps someone has a reference to an appropriate site. I remember seeing a site in a google search which appeared to take a project spec (but perhaps for software only?) and people bid on it, but I don’t remember the url or search term though.
Peter
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How to create Circular Pads?
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Where to hire someone who can make a full service
Thanks for your reply, Peter…
Can that be correct maybe I explained it wrong.
A project like this setup in fritzing. http://fritzing.org/projects/lauflicht-mit-poti
That could not be that much maybe - an hour - I think…
I am totally wrong???
/Jokerper
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Where to hire someone who can make a full service
From this I took you to mean that you wanted to buy a circuit design (which someone would need to engineer) which had a pcb and a suitable pick and place file (which I’m not sure Fritzing supports) to enable you to buy fully assembled boards from one of the prototype suppliers. That is a fair amount of work and cost and may not be possible with Fritzing. If instead you are looking for a simple circuit with breadboard, schematic and pcb with the files to order the pcb to assemble yourself (which now sounds more like what you want) then Fritzing is likely a good bet (it will generate the necessary files to for a board maker to produce circuit boards for you, just maybe not the files to do automatic assembly). If you post what you want to do we can either suggest a project that can be modified to do the job or perhaps someone will offer to do it for a fee. We usually supply free advise to folks trying to make things here rather than do it as a business, but there may well be people here willing to do that.
Peter
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How to create Circular Pads?
The problem with both ideas is you will get a pad on both sides of the board and if you want a round pad I’m sure it is for some SMD application where you want it only on one side. If it were me I would use a square test point or make a custom part.
The only way I can see @opera_night method working would be to delete the unwanted pad from the other side in Gerbv after exporting the gerbers from Fritzing.
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How to create Circular Pads?
Gee, I didn’t know holes have rings.
I suppose you can make 2 sets of gerbers one with circles and one without, and then just swap the without for the bottom layer.
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How to create Circular Pads?
Quite true. However ConMan didn’t provide info re board/layers…
Most often I CNC machine my boards and blow away un-needed pads and holes in CopperCam.
Naturally, if laboring making boards via the Iron-on or Chemical Transfer, then, as you know, it’s simply a matter of taking off undesired ink before etching. Thus, the ‘Hole’ works for a pad on either or both sides.
If sending the job out, that’s a different matter and a test pad would be a good approach. I often use the ‘Pad’ part for test points and solder/wire pads and blow away the hole (in CopperCam).
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Select PTC fuse
By dumb luck the PTCs I ordered on Ebay were PPTC, if the description is correct.
I video-ed the surge. The 1st Speedy(Arduino EFI) is the one with the blown traces, but I also test my other Speedy at the end. Just under the 5.31V is the amps, with the DMM showing the amps across the blown 32mil trace, the only GND for the Arduino side, and is where I want to put the PPTC fuse. I was using the MEGA with the blown USB IC, but it should be ok because I compared it to a good MEGA and they both surged to 70ma and the settled to 50ma.
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Searching for ST7735B - 128x160 TFT LCD Display part
I guess I still have a few things to learn about using Fritzing interface. I just reloaded this part and it lined up perfectly with the breadboard parts.
Thank you again for making this. I’ll try to learn more about how to do that someday. For now, I’m off making a schematic and layout with my new part.
Thank you again,
Mike
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Searching for ST7735B - 128x160 TFT LCD Display part
Ah, you were likely bitten by one of the bugs in Fritzing. It sometimes doesn’t align parts on the grid until you move them and then they snap to the grid correctly. Another is if you drag the part in to breadboard view often the schematic view is rotated by 90 degrees one way or the other. If you drag the part in to schematic view it seems to be correctly aligned every time I’ve seen so far (come to think of it I haven’t checked what breadboard looks like though). Both of these are on my list of bugs to try and fix when I get better at development (however neither may be easy to fix without a lot more knowledge).
Peter
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LinkIt One Development Board
I had to google "grove connector in order to understand what part you were referring to. Connector46/47 were based on grove connector provided by Old_Grey 
Basically Fritzing doesn’t place the drawning wires at the connector middle point (x,y) but instead to one of the corner (Bottom left). I had no idea about it 
What? I was looking for such feature as search bar but never found it.
New tip of the day 
You mean connect them together using internal connection, so they get highlighted if something is connected like “GND pin 1” and “GND pin 2” as example?.
What I should do? Move the yellow header to fit 0.1" grid or let it be?
But if I fix the breadboard alignment, I should fix the pin alignment too 
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LinkIt One Development Board
If you node select - under arrow select - in INK and click on an object in the drawing it will highlight in the XML dialogue.
This part can’t connect to a breadboard in real life so it doesn’t have to align with a BB. You should use it like an UNO and use wires to connect to it.
This is going to be a very low demand part - it’s expensive, so maybe less than 20 -, so if it works leave it as is.
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LinkIt One Development Board
We should do a new topic about standard measures when making a part in fritzing
This topic should include all information regarding how to setup grid, units and so on inside Inkscape (or illustrator). Of course some exception like these board when using on fritzing enviroment.
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LinkIt One Development Board
Not quite. It is a difference in opinion between Inkscape and Fritzing. Inkscape starts an item at the bottom left corner (that is 0 0 in Inkscape coord space. Frizting connects to the center of the item in terms of the grid (it may use Inkscapes values for the coords of the item). That means that Fritzing calculates the grid based on the middle of the item but Inkscape adjusts the item based on the bottom left corner causing the offset you are seeing. If all the terminals are the same width and height both sides are happy, as long as the start x/y coords of a terminal of identical size are on .1 boundaries the alignment will be correct. The problem you are seeing is because the header connectors are 0.056 wide and high and the grove connector ones are 0.020 wide and high (or almost). That means if connector47 starts at the .1 in grid boundary as connector0 on the header, the center of connector47 will be offset .036in in x and y from the center of connector0 causing the misalignment you are seeing.
I’ve been fighting with Inkscape for close to 2 years now and just found it . I have stumbled across it before a couple of times but never figured out before now how to trigger it intentionally.
Yep, that’s it. You want all the pins that connect together internally to be bused so the Fritzing part acts like the real part.
Since you are putting the effort in to making the part, the choice is yours. It will work as is, and that is the easiest solution. I’d prefer to fix up the connectors to all be on the .1 grid so the part looks its best, but that will be a bit of work (easiest is to either change the size of the terminals in the grove connectors as there are less of them or do the calculations to move the center of the existing pins on to the .1 grid like the rest of them).
That is probably a good idea, because if we can get agreement on guidelines that would help with part consistancy. That said there aren’t at the moment that many of us even making parts.
Peter
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