I have no interest in importing a file that could corrupt my install so that is why I asked for the information to try and help. If you do not want to explain what happens in the hope of getting help that is your choice.
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My custom part causing Fritzing to crash on PCB check
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My custom part causing Fritzing to crash on PCB check
I only used that part and 3 resistors but it worked fine, ie no crashes, and none of the problems you had with PCB rules check, auto routing, or ground fill. It’s probably something else in the sketch.
Not that I’m an expert - the only XML expert left - , but do you want to post it.
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My custom part causing Fritzing to crash on PCB check
Could you maybe explain how a part could corrupt an install as that potentially creates a problem for all users with parts submitted on the forum, as not all parts are verified beforehand to be working perfectly?
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My custom part causing Fritzing to crash on PCB check
Thanks that’s good to know. Your feedback is very helpful indeed.
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My custom part causing Fritzing to crash on PCB check
We do not know the exact mechanism that causes it but it happens all the time. Something in the parts file can corrupt the entire parts database and the only way to fix it is to delete your entire parts library and reinstall Fritizing. When this happens it will often stop Fritzing from loading or causes the parts update to fail.
As for parts submitted on the forum they are often broken and as you say unverified. If a part is submitted to the github parts repo and gets excepted that means it has passed testing to be compliant with Fritzings internal standards but it does not get verified as being an accurate footprint or correctly labled etc. It just get verified as being compatible with Fritzing.
Fritzing can be very slow at doing certain things and will become unresponsive for very long periods of time. This is not a sign it has crashed or that something is wrong. You often have to walk away for long periods of time (30minutes+) to let it do its thing and finish. If it is closing on its own then that is a problem but you have not explained how it fails for you.
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What is 2N4401 transistor
Hello~
I am currently involved in the project and I’m trying to understand why connecting,an arduino digital pin 4 to pin2 of a 2N4401 transistor vs 5V PSU to pin1 of 2N4401 transistor and pin 1 and Arduino VCC to 2N4401 pin 3, won’t keep power. When shorting pin 1 and pin 3 on the 2N4401 the MCU is powered on and in-software pin 4 is set to pinMode OUTPUT and HIGHwhich should allow the 2N4401 to let power flow to the MCU for as long as power is available even when the short circuit between 2N4401 pin 1 and 3 is cut.
I am trying to understand why connecting, say, an Arduino digital pin 4 to a 2N4401 pin 2 as well as 5V PSU to 2N4401 pin 1 and Arduino VCC to 2N4401 pin 3, won’t keep power.
Just look at the folllowing picture:
Could anyone explain why this is happening?
I’m sure I lack a lot of knowledge here and I want to know how I could utilize a 2N4401 to make a SW shutdown system. The code is as following:
void setup(){
pinMode(4, OUTPUT);
}
void loop(){
** digitalWrite(4, HIGH);**
** delay(3000);**
** digitalWrite(4, LOW);**
}
Why 2N4401? Why not a MOSFET? MOSFET’s circuits that do SW shutdown are available, but no transistor base SW shutdown circuits are to be found anywhere, and the 2N4401 is all that I have right now.
When shorting pin 1 and pin 3 on the 2N4401 the MCU is powered on and in-software pin 4 is set to pin Mode OUTPUT and HIGH which should allow the 2N4401 to let power flow to the MCU for as long as power is available even when the short circuit between 2N4401 pin 1 and 3 is cut.Instead what happens when the short between pin 1 and 3 is cut, the MCU is turned off instantly.It’s as if the transistor isn’t reacting to the pin 4 MCU signal at all.(because of this question,i also find information form internet,and I find a valueful article name" What is 2N4401 transistor and how does it work" , however it didn’t give me a direct help so I hope someone help me here)
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RN2903 or RN2483
Finding part RN2903 or RN2483
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RN2903 or RN2483
There isn’t a part for this component. You could try to find out a breakout borad that uses it since it looks like a smd thing.
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Schematic to breadboard layout
I have finally managed to finish this project, but I am now having some issues with fritzing. I really need to get this on a pcb. But I don’t know how to correctly draw it in fritzing. I have drawn my circuit how I have my physical parts set up on my breadboard. But it is saying I have connections that still need routing. I think it is the jacks. In schematic and pcb views it is a mess. Would someone have a look at my fritzing drawing please? thanks. Here is a image of my actual circuit https://www.dropbox.com/s/z6arjosm06t6cf5/Photo%2026-06-2018%2C%2018%2018%2020.jpg?dl=0
Chewie circuit.fzz (84.8 KB)
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Schematic to breadboard layout
In breadboard when you click on the warning at the bottom about connections to be routed it will highlight the connections with little yellow dots. You can also see the dotted lines that connect the pins (ratsnest lines) that indicate the missing connections.
If you make those ratsnest lines in to wires the warning goes away.
The reason those ratsnest lines exist is because you have made that connection in the schematic view, possibly by mistake. If you do not want those connections then you can right click on the ratsnest lines in breadbaord view and select delete ratsnest line.
As for turning it into a pcb. You now have to figure out the placement of all the components on the PCB. First you may want to figure out the size you want the PCB. I design all my board within a 100mm x 100mm board to be able to order them from Elecrow for $4.90 for 5 pcbs. Once you have your board size figured out and the parts laid out where you think you want them you will start laying out your traces between parts. Make sure you use both sides of the board and do not be surprised if you have to move parts around multiple times to get an effective efficient design. It will take just as long or longer to figure out as the circuit and software has taken already. There are no easy automatic layout tools and almost none but the most expensive EDA programs have good autorouters and even they can take many hours of running and hundreds of thousands of tries to figure what an experienced human can do in less time.
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Schematic to breadboard layout
Thank you for your reply, I managed to fix the ratsnest lines like you showed me. The only problem is the schematic view is a real mess and the connections need routing even though I did it in breadboard view. This is where I’m stuck now, I’m not sure as of yet how big my PCB will be. But I just want to figure out my schematic now. How can I fix this mess? Thanks again!
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Schematic to breadboard layout
There is no “easy” way to do it. I would start by going to the routing menu while in schematic view and select all traces and then press delete. That should remove any currently routed ratsnests in schematic. Now you would place all the components where you feel like they would best sit (often in the same places as in breadboard view) Then you drag each ratsnests around and when you let go they become wires/traces. You then add bends and route everything in a clear way that is easy to follow. The entire point of the schematic is to allow you to view the circuit and it’s connections to make sure you have everything connected correctly so having it clear is really important.
Be sure to back up your current file before going any further as Fritzing has some bugs that could cause a loss of data.
Also it is not entirely necessary to make the schematic view. If you are 100% confident that the connections are correct in breadboard you can move straight to PCB view. You should always make sure the pins are labelled correctly in PCB view to match your real world parts pin order.
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Schematic to breadboard layout
If BB view is your major design, ie you copied a bench design that works, then you have a lot to do.
The 1st thing is you have to get BB perfect - I see mistakes - and you can’t change things in BB view if you have solid connections in SCH view because FZ will alway try to keep them connected in other views.
Go to SCH view and select Routing/Select all Traces, then Edit/Delete
Go back to BB view and look for red dots on the end of wires - these are not connected - and change them until they are connected and green. I see 10 wires links red, jacks with red dots, and a cap not connected.
Once that is perfect go to SCH and use the ratsnest to connect stuff - you can click on a part pin and what ever is connected to it will turn yellow to find a better connection.
Go to PCB and spread out parts, position them roughly on an oversize PCB - you can resize it latter -, move stuff into a corner until it looks good, and then join traces trusting the ratsnest like you did in SCH view.
If SCH is the major view you can work it out from the above.
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Schematic to breadboard layout
Thank you for your reply, I never noticed the red dots on the breadboard view. I have fixed them. I also deleted the ratsnest lines in schematic view. But I have just realised I used the wrong 3.5mm audio jacks. I need the 4 leg version. But unable to find one in fritzing. I did find one but it wouldn’t fit across the board. Where can I find one of these? thanks Chewie circuit.fzz (80.1 KB)
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Schematic to breadboard layout
Can you provide a link to the correct datasheet for the component. Once we see the footprint we may be able to point you in the right direction or possibly create the part for you.
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Schematic to breadboard layout
There is a data sheet for all 1/4 3.5mm mono jacks here. I ordered mine from aliexpress so they didn’t come with a data sheet but found something similar https://www.mouser.com/ds/2/18/amphenol_phone_plugs_jacks-1157261.pdf
I have uploaded a picture of the jacks I am currently using.
I have updated my circuit too, need to add the jacks now Chewie circuit.fzz (81.6 KB)
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Schematic to breadboard layout
If you look on page 116 of that datasheet you will see the footprints for each part. It shows that they use the 6 pin stereo footprint even when using a mono 4 pin part. Unfortunately the part you had had slightly different pin spacings. I have edited that part and created a new version called ACJM-MH for you and I think I got the spacing correct. To be sure I would create a new sketch, import the part, place it on the PCB and then print the PDF/SVG via the Export for production button at the bottom. Then you can place the part you have on the print out and make sure it is the correct spacing. The difference between some of the variants is on 0.1mm.
Also after modifying that part I would say the orginal part you used would not work with any real jack as the spacing of the pins was a combination of the one you wanted and the one it was labelled as.
AMPHENOL - ACJS-MH.fzpz (8.4 KB)
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Schematic to breadboard layout
Thank you! just imported it but it’s a 6.35mm and it has 6 legs. Mine has four, or have I missed something? *Edit just realised 1/4 is 6.35 my bad
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Schematic to breadboard layout
As I said the datasheet specified the 6 pin layout for the 4 pin part. If the extra legs cause you routing issues then it would be no problem to make a mono only part but it would be non-standard layout. The good part of using the 6 pin layout is you can use stereo jack if they are easier to get or cheaper and it would still work with the mono male connector as if it was the mono jack.
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Schematic to breadboard layout
Sorry! I completely ignored what you had previously said. I will try with the one you have made for me and hopefully it won’t cause any routing problems. Thank you for your help I appreciate it!
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