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Parts update on windows not working

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None of my Windows 7 pro systems can do a parts update, but my linux dev system can. At first I thought this was a parts repository problem, but el-j pointed out that a new install of Frtizing worked for him (possibly on linux though). On Windows if in Fritzing I click help->Check for updates I get an error box "Unable to access network site for "C:/fritzing/frtizing.0.9.3b.64pc/fritzing-parts’. Fritzing can not update the parts folder automatically. ". Clearing the user directories and reinstalling Fritznig from the zip file does not do the initial parts update (presumably due to the same error) and gives the same error message if I click on Check for updates. Is anyone else on windows seeing this or is it only something wrong for me? One machine that fails used to work but hasn’t been on (and therefore hasn’t done its patches) for several months. Even before the patches have been applied the failure is the same (I was wondering if a Windows patch had broken the update but that doesn’t look to be it). Is anyone else seeing this error message or is it something local to me?

Peter


Parts update on windows not working

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Mine’s the same. - extra words to get over the 25 letter limit -

Part Creation for Arduino Pro Mini

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Thanks for this! I had missed these. About same price as a pro mini but with more flash and a 32 bit CPU. I’m going to buy some from ebay to play with.

Peter

Parts update on windows not working

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Well good to know it’s not only me! More reports of failure and whether it is both Win7 (all I have tested) or win 10 too would be useful as well. Linux (and I assume the Mac) seems to work fine still. The bad news is I’m not sure where to go from here. I guess the first item of business is find a work around. It should be possible to manually import the parts repo and then rebuild the database to get updates. I’ll try that and see if it works. Then I need to get back to hacking on lingit2 on windows (I have found documentation that I haven’t seen before that may help) to get a debug environment up to try and see what is wrong in more detail than is being currently reported.

Peter

Part creation for CAN module Niren

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Hello Peter,
I have one module and i have took measurement with Vernier prityclose and accurately to make PCB view. Can you please help and add the PCB view. I tried my self and tried finding videos on Youtube how to make PCB view in fritzing i found non good video. Please suggest if you know any material to learn. please refer attached PDF for module dimensions. if you need more information please let me know.

I don’t thing we should include the Jumper pins in the view as one can put the jumper from top on the module to use. The 7 pins are important to connect with PCB. In this case we can desolder the 7 Pin strip and put it from bottom side and solder again, in this way one can mount the module on PCB keeping Jumper and components upside and have access to use the Jumpers.

Part Creation for Arduino Pro Mini

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There are several videos on Youtube about them.
Beyond being faster the Bluepill has an RTC that alone makes them inherently cheaper.

there is an stm32duino comunity - aparently you can use the Arduino IDE and most Arduino libraries with the BluePill.

There is a Fritzing part for the BluePill somewhere, but it has a bunch of problems - if you search the fritzing forums there is discussions about fixing them.

I jumped at the STM32 for other reasons - I worked with STM32F103’s for about 5 years, so I am much more familiar with them than AVR’s.

Every CPU has its quirks and the STM32 is no different. But it is the easiest to use CPU of this power I have ever worked with.

BTW If you want even more power Several people have upgraded BluePills to STM32F3 and STM32F4 processors - Much Much more flash and RAM.
There is usually a version of each STM32 Family that is pin compatible with its predecessors.

And if you want a quantum leap more power than the stm32 - look at the OrangePi Zero.
a $6 Raspberry Pi like board that runs 1.2Ghz and boots linux.
And you can toggle GPIO pins from shell scripts.

Part creation for CAN module Niren

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That should work and is easy enough to do. This fzpz is a new part so it will load along side the original. It has a pcb view with the 7 pins the outline and the mounting holes. You should print out a copy of the pcb and check that it actually matches the module correctly before ordering boards though.

Niren can bus module pcb.fzpz (24.1 KB)

Learning to make fritzing parts is a little more exciting. The only way I know of is to start doing it and ask questions here (preferably with a copy of the sketch that doesn’t work :slight_smile: ) and several of us will help. These two tutorials refer to the current fritzing version (many others on the net are for earlier versions) and thus may help:

To make this part here is (more or less) what I did this morning:

Edit current pcb svg using Inkscape

  1. Ungroup copper1 and copper0 to ungoup the 13 pads, then select and delete connector7pin to connector12pin as unneeded

  2. select all the pads (connector0pin to connector6pin), group them then rotate them 90 degrees twice to invert their positions (needed so the connections are correct)

  3. select group silkscreen and ungroup it. Change the color on all the lines from white to black (so they are visible in Inkscape)

  4. Create a 3 mm circle (for the mounting holes) and set the color to black and strokewidth none change the name to nonconn0

  5. duplicate it 3 times (for the other 3 holes) and name them nonconn1-3

  6. move the pad group and the 4 mounting holes in to position (I used thin lines in the correct places to align them)

  7. Ungroup the 7 pads that you grouped above (to remove transforms) then select the pads and the 4 mounting holes and group them twice.

  8. change the first group id to copper1 and the second group id to copper0.

  9. delete the thin alignment lines if you used them

  10. Delete the line marking pin 1 on the header and change the length of the 4 border lines to match your drawing (40mm by 28.2) and move them in to position to make a square. At this point doing a resize drawing to page is a good bet to make coords start at 0

  11. Add the text for the pins so it board alignment on the pcb is obvious.

  12. With xml editor move the text above the copper1 group.

  13. again in xml editor select the first line in silkscreen and group it, change the id to silkscreen

  14. In xml editor select (one by one) all the other lines and all the text and click indent node to move them in to group silkscreen.

  15. At this point you should have group silkscreen followed by copper1 (which has copper0 in it) so click edit select all and in document properties click resize page to drawing or selection and save it as plain svg.

  16. Now edit the fzp file to change the metadata to indicate the pcb now exists and add in the pcb defintions that I removed so supress the pcb and create the new part.

  17. in pcb svg manually remove the translates on connector0-6 that Inkscape has insisted on inserting.

  18. remove the px from the font sizes in the svg too.

You could start from the pcb svg of the original part and try and follow the above steps (you probably need to know a fair bit about Inkscape to follow them which is a complex task in itself), and see if you can come up with a working svg file that matches the one in the new part. The fzp file changes assume you know the file format, so I’d just copy the one from the new part for now. It is usually much easier when you have a working example to compare to.

Peter

Part Creation for Arduino Pro Mini

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It turns out I have a board with the same CPU, but when I bought it a couple of years ago it was $8 against $3 for a pro mini. Now on Ebay at least one blue pill clone is less the $3 (and less than a pro mini). I ordered some to play with.

Another good reference (assuming you can buy more than one at a time anyway). I have a couple of PI zeros, but the frustrating part is that even now you can only buy the $5 version one at a time (which means shipping raises the price unless you have other things you want from the same source) which reduces their usefulness. Thanks for the references!

Peter


Part Creation for Arduino Pro Mini

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There are many stm32 variant boards, like the BluePill, but the BluePill is the cheapest.

For more horsepower there are a variety of relatively cheap STM32F4 boards that are used by the deone community - search for STM32 Flight controllers. I think I have seen these close to $10.

I Mostly work with Orange Pi’s most of the cheap ones are based on Allwinner H2+ and H3’s, they are far more bang for the buck than Raspberry Pi’s.
The OPI0 is much more useful than an RPI0

It has taken several years with no help from AllWinner but the Linux Kernel support for AllWinner SOC’s is now very good.

And you can get an OPI0 with eMMC to boot off of which eliminates SD Card failures

Buying in quantity and getting reasonable shipping is an issue.

I have not looked at trying to buy 5 OPI0’s at one time.

The shipping is still exhorbitant.

But I have designed projects arround OPI0’s.

Remember you get ALOT essentially for free with any form of Linux SBC that will cost alot of programming effort on an STM32 or Arduino.

You have far more Ram and Flash and performance, and a variety of peripherals on board.

Quite Often I redesign Arduino or STM32 boards to use an OPI0 and often save enough in other parts to make up for the more expensive board.

It is much easier to do IoT with a linux board.

Parts update on windows not working

Parts update on windows not working

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I don’t think so, as I tried a laptop that used to work but hasn’t had updates either from Windows or the av provider for months and it also doesn’t work (thus seeming to eliminate a windows patch as well). My current guess is something changed in the repository or bit rot in a component such as libgit2, but that should also affect linux and it doesn’t appear to be. At present I’m rebuilding my Windows dev setup to try and get to the point of being able to debug the transaction on windows (which is going to be exciting because I have to use some Microsoft debugger rather than gdb …). That of course is made harder because I never got libgit2 to work properly even when updates were working correctly.

Peter

Need TR5 LITTELFUSE Radial Fuse

Need TR5 LITTELFUSE Radial Fuse

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This should do what you want. As always print a copy of the pcb and verify the footprint before ordering boards …

Little fuse tr5.fzpz (9.5 KB)

Peter

Need TR5 LITTELFUSE Radial Fuse

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Many Thanks Peter, That’s what I need.
I’ve not yet the component to check the size, but it is on the way.

Thanks Olivier

Parts update on windows not working

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Same scenario on my ‘mini-tower’. Newer DELL Inspiron 3668 with Windows 10 Home (64x), OS build: 17134.228; Version: 1803. The pc came with McAfee LiveSafe pre-installed.
Months ago I un-installed McAfee, updated Windows Defender, and verified an exception in the firewall to allow “Fritzing.exe” to accept inbound and outbound activity.
If memory serves me correctly, there was no issues with ‘fritzing’. However, a OS reset was needed to dismiss the discrepencies from un-installing McAfee.
Question: Is there a link on ‘fritzing’s’ website where someone can download the parts library update(s)?


Parts update on windows not working

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Yes I think so. You need to either clone or download the zip from

in to C:\fritzing\fritzing.0.9.3b.64.pc\fritzing-parts and then in Fritzing click Part->regeneratate parts database to install it (note I haven’t yet actually tried this and you may want to keep a backup copy of the 2 user data files in

kill corrupt files:

There are two user directories (with your parts and the parts database) which don’t get touched during an install (to not affect your sketchs during upgrades). On Windows they are in

c:\users\username\AppData\Fritzing\roaming\Fritzing (which is a hidden directory so you need to enable hidden directories in explorer) and

c:\Users\username\My Documents\Fritzing (where username is your windows id)

If you don’t have any parts or sketches you want to keep you can just delete those two directories and Fritzing will receate them, or you can move them aside by renaming them if you wan to keep something in them.

Which contains the current database and your sketches (and doesn’t get cleared on a reinstall of Fritzing). Fritzing will happily use the backup copies if you replace them. I’m trying to get a development environment up but am having troubles with libgit2 (which is what does the automatic update) even before this latest problem. Being able to debug the libgit2 calls should tell me (maybe :slight_smile: ) what is wrong to get a fix going.

Peter

Need TR5 LITTELFUSE Radial Fuse

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Not a problem, it took me about an hour to combine an electrolytic capacitor (with some edits in breadboard) and steal the schematic from a generic fuse to create the new part. It took about a year or more to learn enough about making parts to do that, so its usually easier for one of us that knows how to make someone a new part they need.

Peter

Cricut Maker, has anyone used to make stencils?

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Hello all, I’m working on making my first home made PCB just for the fun of saying I did it myself and I’m looking for help with a question I haven’t been able to find answers to in the forum or by way of Google.

Can a Cricut brand vinyl cutting machine be effectively used to make a stencil for masking off traces in order to etch the unnecessary copper off the PCB board? If so what file format needs to be exported to do so?

Parts update on windows not working

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Hello Peter,

Your post was very informative, and clear-cut. I went to the GitHub site and looked at the dates and descriptions of the individual files. There are only a few, which does not show anything of significant importance regarding updated/new parts.
I believe your post to be a primary alternative until the ‘libgit2’ discrepancy is resolved. The link to the the zip allows anyone the ability to ascertain if it is worth cloning or downloading based on the date and description of each file.
In my case, it is not feasible to clone or download the zip. The changes are insignificant and not needed.
Thank-you for your reply.

Hawkeye

Cricut Maker, has anyone used to make stencils?

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I haven’t researched the topic but this is the only one I came across watching Elec YT channels.

I’ve also seen Coke cans cut open and have holes etched in them for stencils.

I guess it depends on the thickness of the vinyl because it dictates how much paste gets put down.

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