Yes, in general a google search for “fritzing part 18650 battery holder” will find parts, in this case (since I made it) I know it is in the forums and the forum search bar finds it:
A google search for “fritzing part mpu-9250” indicates there is one in the Sparkfun fritzing part repo on github. If that isn’t suitable (the ebay et. al. clones are usually a copy), post again and I’ll look further.
Yes. I looked at Sparkfun board before posting here.
Unfortunately, it is looks dimensionally different to the one on AliEx or BG or ebay.
I cannot use the sparkfun part, Is it possible to get a part for this ?
Thanks,
Regards,
If I had know that life would have been easier , try this part on github:
It is for the mini not the pro but they appear identical from the Fritzing standpoint at least at a quick glance. I made the new part because it isn’t identical to this one.
Oh Sorry about that.
Thanks for this. I am using the DI Mini, suspecting they will be the same.
Fingers crossed.
Onward and Upward !!
Thanks for your effort.
super gracias hoy si la pieza me trabajo, entendi varios detalles que no me habia percatado con el diseño de piezas en fritzing. Sos lo maximo @vanepp. En serio gracias, hay te puse en la autoria de la pieza.
Indeed when I looked these are not like each other. This however is more like it (but lacks the size and proper placement of the mounting holes which is important in IMUs). If you could provide the correct locations and size of the holes I will update the part.
While probably informative, it is also a task looking for people willing to help, in the form of updating the broken parts and submitting the changes to github. Help with parts creation is always available by asking here. While I can and perhaps eventually will do this at the moment getting development going again is more important.
I have a bunch of these coming on order.
Then i am going to take some physical measurements, and update here.
Till then your guess is my guess.
Btw, great work on turning this around in such short time.
From what i have seen so far on internet, these are dims [ to be validated]
Pin spacing: 2.54mm
Module size: 15mm * 25mm
Yep, knew those, its the position of the mounting holes and their size which is the mystery. As usual there doesn’t seem to be a mechanical drawing available on the Internet for these boards.
I am a newbie, and have created a rather simple circuit. Just powers a wemos mini d1 board, and then reads accelerometer data on I2C.
I want to keep the PCB size as small as possible. Reason, is this will be mounted in a cyclindrical pipe body, so best to be small.
Also, i plan to have a HEADER [male pins and female recep]. I want to solder this header to my custom PCB board. Then solder the accelrometer to PCB board.
Then i will press mount the Wemos [which will have male pins] on top of the Header’s female recep.
My question is: Does my PCB have all holes for the female header suitable for Wemos ? I cannot say, how many holes will i see once i order this.
I am expecting [or want] a total of 16 + 8 = 24 holes in my PCB. and 4 mounting holes on the corners.
Is there a software or tool, that tell me how my PCB will look like before i order it ?
I will be glad if someone took a shot at optimising this PCB based on best practices.
Thanks in advance.
I suspect for clearance reasons you are going to want the accellrometer board to be on the bottom of the board and the mini on the top of the board (or visa versa). So you want one of the other of them to be on the other side of the board. In Inspector the pcb layer setting will move one or the other to the bottom of the board. At present they are both on the top. Moving one to the bottom changes the trace routing which is why you need to do it now. I’d also suggest moving the accelrometer as far towards the bottom of the mini as you can (away from the antenna at the top of the board). It may interfere with the antenna and you can move it without incurring any more board room (the mini will be extending down that far anyway.)
It looks like it but the underlying parts aren’t the best. The holes are a little too large for .1 headers.
Yes. Export the gerber files from Fritzing
File->export->for production->Extender gerber
will export the board in gerber format.
the top of the drill.txt file that it generates tells me the drill holes are not right (they may however work):
; NON-PLATED HOLES START AT T1
; THROUGH (PLATED) HOLES START AT T100
M48
INCH
T1C0.086614
T100C0.036111
T101C0.039370
T102C0.098425
for .1 headers you want a drill hole of 0.038inches, the T100C0.036111 one will likely get rounded up to 0.038, but the T101C0.039370 one will round up to 0.042 very likely which is a bit large. This is a feature (or rather a misconfiguration) in the parts and can be fixed by fixing the parts. Displaying the files in a gerber viewer (this is from gerbv, a free gerber viewer from the geda project) of the complete board:
before ordering boards you should always look over the gerber files in a viewer. Sometimes it looks fine in Fritzing but has errors in the gerber output (and the gerber output is what you will get from the board house).
other than the hole sizes (which i will have a look at after I start another long running job in a while) it will work as is. Although I don’t often make boards, best practice says come out straight from the pad, bend at 45 degrees and go straight back in to the pad on the other end (with all bends at 45 degrees). That said at I2C speeds this will work just fine.