Assuming you are talking about changing default behavior which currently defaults to standard (24mil), it is on my list (because it annoys me to have to click to reset it to something larger or smaller. If we manage to get development going again which unfortunately is a big if.
Peter
Yes exactly, in the event that I have to hand make my PCB again I have to go through and change all pcb thickness’ everytime i draw a trace
You can go Routing/select all traces, and then change them as a group. If you have a few individuals you can change them after.
мне нужно чтобы во fritzing открыть нарисованныу надпись. И хотелось бы разобраться как самому нарисовать в adobe illustrator
Assuming you’re making a Single-Sided board (set to single side board and design on the Bottom layer in Fritzing).
In CopperCam you’ll need to Flip the board Horizontally.
The Holes are on their own layer as is the contour and traces/pads… When you Flip it, check the box to flip all layers…
Recommend also resetting Origin (that will be Origin/start point of Mill-bit).
You can totally resize and reshape the pads, singularly or many/all). You may want only a few sizes.
Can set all holes to same size to reduce changing bits as it will normally want to select bits corresponding to diameters Fritzing generated. The problem is Fritzing parts (designed by different folks) end up with different diameters.
For Pads too close, there’s a separator tool as well for traces…
When generating the Gcode, select the layer and bits. Do it separately for Contour, Holes, Engraving (engraving = traces).
Good luck…
Google translate translates this as:
I need to open the painted inscription during fritzing.
I’m not sure what a painted inscription is.
And I would like to figure out how to draw in adobe illustrator
Likely your best bet is the Adobe site for tutorials, unless someone else here can help you with Illustrator. I use Inkscape not Illustrator.
However why do you need illustrator to make a board? Illustrator would be used to make parts, not a board, boards can be made in Fritzing using existing parts. Making parts is fairly difficult, you are better to try and find existing parts to use. What parts do you need that you don’t have?
Peter
суть в том , что это будет большая плата, мне так сказать нужен рисунок по которому я мог бы расставить светодиоды.
I’m not sure where the big fee comes in (or if google isn’t translating successfully), the cost of Illustrator? If so switch to Inkscape which is open source and thus has no fee attached. What kind of LED do you want to use? We have parts for a number of different kinds of leds both in the core parts bin and posted various places.
Peter
Буду использовать светодиоды SMD 5050 . попробую еще рах обьяснить, мне нужно нарисовать буквы для макетной платы, чтобы добавить в fritzing, после чего по макету я буду расставлять светодиоды и делать трассу
Спасибо что откликнулись, я просто не понял сразу что INKSCAPE это приложение. Скачал, установил.Все просто, еще раз спасибо!
I’m still a little unclear on why you need Inkscape. If you need text on the breadboard view, there is a text tool in the core parts bin at the bottom in the bin marked breadboard view, 5th icon from the left. It will allow you to add text to breadboard view without using Inkscape. The image view next to it can load svg files from Inkscape, but I’m not sure that the text tool wouldn’t do what you want and be a lot easier than learning Inkscape.
Peter
@vanepp Thank you for your help and script. I guess it become to perfect !
Boladge HMC5883L Compass Module.fzpz (197.8 KB)
Close but no cigar 
, much better but still three issues away from perfection. In PCB your silkscreen, isn’t showing because it is not in group silkscreen. When it is in group silkscreen that group is below copper1/copper0 when it should be above them, and finally the hole in the pin are too large (0.043204 rather than the desired 0.038 for .1 header pins). The hole size calculation is pad diamater in inches (0.078) - 2 * stroke width (where stroke width is 20 when scale is at 1/1000 which your svg isn’t). I was lazy and instead of doing the math, I copied in a proper pad from another part and just copied the parameters in to your pads. Here is a replacement part with the pcb svg fixed up. It has the same moduleId as your current part so you would need to unload the current part before loading this one (or just unzip it and see what I did to the pcb svg).
Boladge HMC5883L Compass Module2.fzpz (186.6 KB)
I just noticed the fzpz is huge (186K) That appears to be because there is a font loaded in the schematic svg. It would be better to use OCRA (it will get substituted by Fritzing anyway) and remove the font definition from the svg.
Peter
I’ve just been working on your board as a matter of fact, The other project requires me to manually translate Eagle coords in to Inkscape ant it get tiring fast, so I put some time in to finishing the routing. At this point there are only the connections left to route but space is getting tight. Here is the board as it stands now
accordion-Sketch.fzz (154.0 KB)
I think I’m going to call it a night though.
good morning peter,
nice job! thank you so much .
However, I have some remarks. For the circuit of the right hand I have on my sketch 304/305 mm taking the rod or the pin 2 (gnd) as axis and your sketch gives 292 mm of the pin 2 (gnd) D1, to the pin 2 (gnd) D49. I use your ruler to measure. For the right hand the rod 50 is not used, there is no sensor therefore, there is no magnet, there is no circuit! It’s a question !
My measurements are a little random maybe! ( 1/2 mm ) thank you philippe
Yes that is correct, at present the end to end spacing is 291.873mm from U1 to U49. Rather than use the rulers (which I am using to keep the traces level rather than to measure anything), I selected U49 and read the position from the Inspector window, as shown a few posts back. Subtracting the U49 X coordinate in mm from the U1 X coordinate gives the exact distance between the two. However the positions of the sensors are not fixed, nor is the size of the board, both are changeable in Inspector. I have discovered a routing problem and need to rearrange the traces to fix it. I’d suggest that you us e Inspector to move the sensors to where you need them (I could do this, but I don’t know where they should move to to make placement of the magnets easiest). To help with that I have increased the width of the board outline to 310CM in Inspector to give you room to move the sensors in. Now using Inspector you can move the sensors (one at a time unfortunately) to where they best suit you. The traces will follow but will need to be repositioned once all the sensors are in the right place. This picture is the current board before changes. Note that Inspector is showing U49 the last sensor, that is what it will move.
To move the sensor I changed the units to px (1/90 of an inch) and used the up and down arrows (circled in red and blue) to do the actual move (only in X) to move the sensor. You can type numbers in to the position field but the arrows (which move a small number of units per click) are usually easier. If you move all the sensors to where they are best positioned for your magnets and then save the sketch and post it here I can move the traces to make the board correct with the sensors in their new positions. Here sensor U49 has moved to the right a bit, the traces are in the wrong position but that is correctable later:
Peter
Good evening Peter,
Difficult for me to make changes on your sketch! I think what’s important is whether all the hall sensors are aligned on the PCB as shown in your sketch. Each magnet will be glued and fixed to a 2 mm (valve) rod after the PCB has been put in place and will be aligned under the corresponding sensor. I will edit a photo to show you. I thought that the 49 sensors can not fit on the same track because of the spacing of the solder holes at 2.54 mm? I can not do anything tonight.
Can you make me a sketch at scale 1 ?
Tomorrow I am changing a photo to explain.
Thanks to you philippe
