its the board(ESPRESSIF ESP32 Wroom 32D) aswell as the ultrasonic sensor hc sr04.
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Parts position on the breadboard
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Parts position on the breadboard
Yep the sr04 part in core is broken (misaligned by 0.05in in breadboard). As @opera_night suggested either turn of snap to grid by clicking View-Snap to grid, or a maybe better alternative use View->Set Grid Size from the default 0.1in to 0.05in at which point the sro4 snaps to the breadboard properly. I don’t see the ESP32 Wroom 32D in core parts, so that is likely a user supplied part. There are some in parts submit (search the forum for ESP32 Wroom 32D) and one of those may work better, or upload the .fzpz file of the part you have and I can fix it up for you.
Peter
Peter
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Parts position on the breadboard
HC-SR04.fzpz (30.4 KB)
There it is. Thanks for fixing it 
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Sewable LCD Mounting Board (PCB)
OK, now… This, unless some additional problem crops up, will be the penultimate version.
Sewable Display Mount PCB.fzz (11.5 KB)
Both of the top mounting holes now align with an LCD array (I checked by clicking on one in the menu and superimposing). The lower ones can hold simple braces, or I can develop 3D-printed parts to extend south to the corresponding places on 2- or 4-line displays.
This much more real estate on the board allowed me to put more space between the sew holes; I even got all of the digital I/O along one edge, and added extra +5V and Ground sew holes (something I see often, and in this case it makes better sense for either left or right wrist wearing).
What’s left to do is figure out the measurement that RA headers would move the posts. It just occurred to me that, rather than move the mounting hole, I can just add a new set of header pads at the lower location; that would allow for either the RA headers, or short straight headers, depending on what’s available and what’s specifically needed.
I’m also thinking of shortening the jumper.
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Parts position on the breadboard
OK here is a corrected version of one of the ones in core:
HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Distance Sensor.fzpz (26.3 KB)
Peter
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Sewable LCD Mounting Board (PCB)
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Sewable LCD Mounting Board (PCB)
Yep, uploading again. 
Sewable Display Mount PCB.fzz (11.5 KB)
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Sewable LCD Mounting Board (PCB)
That worked, don’t know what happened with the first one. Looks good and would work as is, but I would increase your clearance in places because you have the room to do so. This is the copper bottom layer of the above fzz from gerbv:
The red markers are places where I would reroute for more clearance. If possible (I didn’t do it here) I would move the sew pad by the bottom left mounting hole to provide more clearance for the mounting screw. Here is how I would route this:
again the sew pad I would move if possible is circled in red. Now the same with the top (less changes there):
and how I would do it:
Now the complete board with bottom , top, drill and silkscreen top layers which is how the board will actually look (this is the one with my changes):
and the fzz that produced this:
Sewable Display Mount PCB-4.fzz (12.5 KB)
Peter
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Sewable LCD Mounting Board (PCB)
Here’s where you get to throw a fit, because about 90%% of what you just did is now undone. I managed to get the distance needed for the R/A headers much more easily than I’d anticipated.
Sewable Display Mount PCB.fzz (14.3 KB)
I think the sew holes on the right end, and maybe the Contrast sew hole, are the only ones that still have the problems you cite, and I can fix those easily enough.
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Sewable LCD Mounting Board (PCB)
Not a problem, this is the normal course for laying out a pcb. Try something see if it works or doesn’t, then try and improve on it. Along the way some of the folks watching this may learn how to do it and everybody wins.
Peter
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STM32F303 STM32F103 RobotDyn BlackPill
While attempting to fix this on your own is a laudable goal, it likely isn’t too practical because parts creation is mostly undocumented (I’m trying to change that, but it is slow going.) The usual way (and the way I learned to make parts) is to ask for help in here. We (which has mostly come down to I, because those I learned from are no longer posting here) don’t mind helping people learn to make parts because we all benefit from new parts. That said your part is mostly pretty good, it has a number of problems, but with a few of them fixed it works. I then took your part and modified it to the point where it could be submitted to core parts. While doing that I fixed your original part up enough that it now works in pcb. The red rectangle in the image Kjell posted above is because connector49 and connector50 are connector49pin in the fzp file but connector49pad in the pcb svg file. Thus the connector effectively does not exist in pcb, and the red rectangle appears. There were also some grouping problems (connectors not in the copper group, and copper1 was missing). With those corrected we get this:
Looks OK here but looks are deceiving. The gerber drill file indicates the holes are all 0.028137in rather than the correct 0.038in for a .1in header pin to fit.
; NON-PLATED HOLES START AT T1
; THROUGH (PLATED) HOLES START AT T100
M48
INCH
T100C0.028137
…
You will also note my copy has no text in pcb view. This is the normal convention. If the user wants text there, it can be added to the sketch, if it is in the part, to remove the text you need make a new part without the text. Leaving the text out of pcb is the most flexible for the user. Schematic works but has some problems. It is not on .1 boundaries and lacks terminalIds. The lack of terminalIds causes the wire to connect to the center of the pin rather than the correct action of connecting at the end of the pin as in my part on the left"
The connections are routed at a 45 degree angle so it is obvious if the terminalId is not correctly placed. Here is a copy of my corrected part, which has a new moduleId and thus (as we see here) will load along side your original part. The original part that I modified enough to work in pcb will be in the temp parts bin when the fzz file below is loaded. You can edit it with parts editor, and save as a new part to get a copy that will load beside your original part so see what I did. In the new part schematic is completely new, I used the simple template from, this tutorial to make it:
I also rescaled all the svgs (the procedure is referenced in the template posting.) As noted if you have questions feel free to ask in here. Here is a copy of the improved part (it too will be in the temp bin of the fzz file but this is easier to get at):
STM32MINI-corrected.fzpz (27.0 KB)
and then a copy of the test sketch:
test-Sketch.fzz (132.9 KB)
Hope this helps.
Peter
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STM32F303 STM32F103 RobotDyn BlackPill
vanepps
Thank you very much.
I was impressed.
As a result of the amateur’s hands, it has caused you trouble. I’m sorry.
We will continue to use this site in the future.
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STM32F303 STM32F103 RobotDyn BlackPill
Not trouble, as I said this how I learned to make parts from those who know more than I do. I’m just passing their help onwards. We all gain when more people make parts.
Peter
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Parts position on the breadboard
thank you so much! Appreciate it!
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Fritzing part L9110H motor driver
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Fritzing part L9110H motor driver
There is a dual channel driver module in parts-submit, but it doesn’t look like the chip is around anywhere. The easy way to make one is to copy in the generic IC from core parts in to your sketch and edit the pin labels to match the chip. That will look pretty similar to a custom part (which is somewhere between trivial for me and difficult if you aren’t experienced with making parts.)
Peter
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Fritzing part L9110H motor driver
alright…how do i edit the pin labels?
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Fritzing part L9110H motor driver
With a generic IC loaded in to schematic (any view should do but schematic is probably easiest), click on the generic IC which will bring it up in Inspector (lower right window,) In Inspector click on edit pin labels enter your desired pin labels and press save. Change the chip label field in inspector to L9110H and you should be done.
Peter
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Sewable LCD Mounting Board (PCB)
A late potential wrench in your plans. I was thinking about why you wanted RA headers, thinking that soldering in a standard low profile header would probably be as small or smaller, and realized you probably want the LCD to be unplugable (thus large .1 female sockets, and RA connectors to make them smaller.) There is an easier solution though, so called swiss sockets ( I have some but can’t find a reference to post at the moment) will do what you want with minimal space (I’d expect about the same space as a RA header. They need a 0.030 hole and are like the pins in a machined pin IC socket except in a SIP header format in both male and female. You would need to unsolder the .1 headers (which won’t mate with these sockets) on the LCD if it already has headers fitted but it may do what you want without the RA connectors.
edit:
Found what I mean on digikey (ebay has them cheaper but I can’t find a listing): A208-ND is an example digikey part number for the socket version (it has a picture so you can see the small size). There is a dual pin version like a .1 header as well but I searched for socket.
Peter
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Led On off First 1
Led On off first 1 123
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