Opps. 
, that sux no ant.
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Hum-900-prc part
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Small Transformer 14x19x15h
Some things that might help:
replace the 1n4001 with a 1A schottky diode. The Schottky diode switches much faster than a 1n4001 which might help if it is the inverse spike that’s causing the second trigger.
Put a 50pf cap across R1 which will speed up charging the gate capacitance of the mosfet and make it switch faster (you may need to experiment with higher or lower values to see what works best)
Swap the 2n7000 for a higher current / lower RDSon value mosfet The 2n7000 is 5 to 6 ohms max RDSon (you still need the 3V gate threshold though). You look to maybe be drawing more than the max 500ma of drain current depending on what the LED voltage drops are. 15 ohms at 12V will be about 750 ma or so
With added circuit complexity you could also add a one shot at the junction of the diodes and R1 so you can stretch the length of the trigger pulse (a 555 timer should do) which may increase the amount of light you get if the current trigger is too short or it may not help at all but may be worth a try. Basically the coil/diodes trigger the 555 and its output drives the MOSFET for a fixed time. For testing a pot then allows you to stretch the pulse for more light output to see if it helps (or burns out the LEDs of course if it gets too long 
).
Peter
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Small Transformer 14x19x15h
Boy did this topic go sideways.
The Schottky and cap are do-able, but I’ll have to research the MOSFET. I had a STP60NSO4Z working on the bench, but I had to switch to the 2N7000 because it wasn’t sensitive enough to trigger on the car.
I tried this 555 from Ytube, but couldn’t get it to work.
The sketch is here is you want to add the 555
LED Timing Light.fzz (23.2 KB)
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Hum-900-prc part
It does not have to have a board antenna a wire type can be connected to pin 19
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Hum-900-prc part
On page 98 it says "The HUM-900-PRC-UFL and the HUM-900-PRC-CAS must use one of the antennas in Figure 108 in order for the certification to be valid. "
On Page 100 it has “Specialty Styles Linx offers a wide variety of specialized antenna styles (Figure 108). Many of these styles utilize helical elements to reduce the overall antenna size while maintaining reasonable performance. A helical antenna’s bandwidth is often quite narrow and the antenna can detune in proximity to other objects, so care must be exercised in layout and placement.”
I am going to test it with different type specialty styles to get the distance needed.
I just need the footprint Thanks for the help
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Hum-900-prc part
If anyone would like to do this for me I can pay!
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Small Transformer 14x19x15h
Thanks Old Gray! i still made Radio amateur projects, so this part is very usefull!
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Hum-900-prc part
I’m using this data sheet:
On page 88 it specifies a 4 layer board (which Fritzing doesn’t support) to create the appropriate RF strip line for the antenna connection from the pins on the module (assuming you want the standard small module or the -cas module). Note the comments in there on needing careful board layout to get a successful RF path (I don’t know enough to do that, you however may). The original part number you specified is for the standard part which I don’t believe will work with Fritzing, nor will the -cas version as both appear to need a 4 layer board for the RF connection. I think the -ufl version may work as the RF comes out the connector to a cable or antenna and you should be able to use a 2 layer board to mount the module although the data sheet doesn’t appear to actually say that, so I’m guessing that the RF connection being a cable will make a 2 layer board work. That version however has a different PCB layout from the standard version and is a bit larger if size is an issue. It appears that the ufl connection is also pre certified which is important if legality is a concern as I expect a certification would be very expensive. As I said it is easy enough to do a footprint, the needed information is in the data sheet, I just need to know which footprint you want (with the warning the first two may not work in practice).
Peter
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Solder mask keepout issues
Fritzing doesn’t seem to be using a consistent keepout distance around my SMD pads. In the attached image, you can see that some pads have no keepout, some have a small keepout of around 2 mils, and some have the “normal” keepout of 6 mils. Even within identical pads on the QFN part, some pads have no keepout and some have alarge keepout that bleeds together. Any ideas what is causing this? Does inconsistency in SVGs for parts influence this somehow (maybe strike width??)
Thanks!
What I expected should have happened instead:
Consistent mask keepout around pads
My version of Fritzing and my operating system:
Windows 10, Fritzing 0.9.3
Please also attach any files that help explaining this problem
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Small Transformer 14x19x15h
OK, I was lazy and only did schematic here and I haven’t tested this but I think it should work.
Timing_light_new.fzz (12.4 KB)
I swiped the 555 circuit for a monostable from here (which also has the calculations for the r2/c3 values to set the monostable time which you will need to figure out):
https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/waveforms/555_timer.html
The monostable triggers on a negative edge so you may need to invert the leads on L1 so that the leading edge of the spark pulse is going towards ground to get it to trigger correctly. I’d replace the 1n4001 diodes with 1n4148 switching diodes which are faster than the 4001s. They are there to keep the input voltage in to the 555 between ground and +12V to not blow the 555. Hopefully the current coil produces enough voltage (it will need about -8 volts to trigger I think, increasing the value of R3 may help if it won’t trigger as is). What this circuit does is stretch the input pulse width to being longer than the trigger, so you need to figure out what the maximum frequency of the input pulses will be at top revs and adjust the monostable pulse width to be about half of that. In theory that should get you more light (as the led is on a bit longer) and as a bonus should eliminate the second pulse if the monostable is set to stay on longer than the second trigger pulse when the spark goes off (assuming that is what is causing the two strobes which seems likely). You can replace R2 with a pot so you can set an approximate C3 value and vary the time with the pot to set the time experimentally. The ideal way to do this would be to have an oscilloscope where you can see the input waveform at the trigger on pin 2 of the 555 and the output from pin 3 on the 555 while doing the adjustments. As well this circuit will switch the MOSFET gate between 0 and 12V (so you need to make sure the mosfet has a max gate source voltage higher than 12V) but most any MOSFET should be driveable with this you don’t need a logic level mosfet as now. The drawing in the tutorial article shows how the output pulse is longer than the input trigger much better than I can explain in words .
Peter
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Solder mask keepout issues
I have seen similar issues with parts i’ve edited. It has to do with the way the pads are written in the svg file. I am not sure exactly the why but I do know for me I had to remove the pads from their svg group and delete all the extra attributes in the xml and then resize the entire thing before regrouping and renaming the group.
Now with that said it looks like it is only the paste mask layer with the issue so if you are not getting a stencil cut I wouldn’t worry about it.
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Xenon Flash Tube U
I don’t know how to draw glass for BB view
Xenon Flash Tube U
v1 - Xenon Tube U.fzpz (7.5 KB)
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Small Transformer 14x19x15h
SCH is fine, and I only filled in the BB for fun.
Sorry L1 is only a single strand of open-ended wire that I wrapped 20x around the outside of the ignition lead and only gives out about 200mV on my Ebay DSO138 scope.
When I move D1 I see the wires are crossed, do I just rotate the diode - keep cathode to GND -.
Timing_light_new2.fzz (11.0 KB)
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Small Transformer 14x19x15h
My fault! I swapped the direction of the diode and screwed up the wiring. I hope the coil voltage level is because R3’s value is too low, I increased it to 470K which will need much less current to change the voltage and hopefully increase the voltage from the coil enough to trigger the 555. The input shouldn’t need very much current but it does need to get down to about 1/3 of 12v to trigger I think. If that doesn’t work we may need to add another resistor to ground from the trigger pin to get the DC bias closer to the trigger level so the pulse from the coil will trigger the 555. The idea of the two diodes is D2 will only let the input get to 12.6v at the trigger pin if the coil generated more than +12V and D1will only let the voltage at the trigger get to -0.6v if the coil gets below ground, they may not be needed if the coil doesn’t generate that much voltage. This sketch should be correct I think (or at least hope ). If this doesn’t trigger, please measure the voltage swing the coil produces at pin 2 of the 555 and I’ll try and figure out a resistor value that will let us trigger on what we get by biasing the trigger pin closer to the threshold. I’ve added (but not finished connecting) R4 in this sketch in case we need to try the dc bias trick.
Timing_light_new3.fzz (13.2 KB)
Peter
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Hum-900-prc part
I am connecting Linx tomorrow to make sure that understand correctly I will let you know as soon as I hear back from them.
Thanks Chris
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Solder mask keepout issues
Thanks—I did make those parts, so I’ll try messing with the SVGs to see if I can get it worked out. I am getting a stencil made, but if I need to I can edit the Gerber file for the paste layer to clean it up.
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Small Transformer 14x19x15h
Opps, it blew out the LED after 1 flash.
Changed R1 10R to 1K and the LED stays on.
I think MOSFETs need a pull-down on the gate, but that did nothing either.
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How to créate a streapboard the same like in the picture?
Hello everyone,
I am French and I am a beginner on Fritzing as well as on this forum.
I wish I could create a stripboard like the one visible in this photo :
(I have many breadboards like this one)
I have watched this video several times, but I do not understand how the guy came to create this streapboard on Fritzing :
Is it possible ? If yes, how ?
Thank you for your help
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How to créate a streapboard the same like in the picture?
If you start Frtizing and in the parts bin (the window on the right) scroll down to breadboard view the third icon from the left is strip board. If you drag a copy of that in to breadboard view you will get the default vertical column strip board. Now if you go to the inspector window (bottom right) and select board layout then in the pull down menu select Radio Shack 276-150 you get the closest standard perfboard that Fritizing has. To get your exact perfboard (and I expect what the person in the video did, although the download site in the video didn’t work for me) either you or one of us would need to make a custom part that matched your stripboard. If you can make the download site in the video work then download the .fzz files and use file open to load them in to Fritzing and see if one of the boards he has matches yours.
Peter
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Small Transformer 14x19x15h
Duh! I should have thought of that. Looks like the timer was triggered continuously and blew the led with 250ma of current. The 1 k will keep the current in bounds til we get this right (or decide we can’t whichever comes first ).
The output stage on the 555 is totem pole as far as I know so shouldn’t need a pull down resistor (it actively drives both high and low). From what happened I think the timer was continuously triggered, the 555 output was always high and the led was always on (and then poof as noted above from too much current). The 1K resistor in place of the 10 ohm should fix that while we figure out our trigger problems. For now I’d reproduce the circuit in the tutorial I started from to check the trigger does what we expect. So for testing replace the coil with a push button switch as in this schematic. That should let us verify the circuit does what we expect and set the timing values you want to adjust R2/C3 so the output pulse is a little longer than the pulse from the coil on your scope. When you push the button it should produce an output pulse that delays a bit when the button is released. If it doesn’t do that then there is something wrong with the circuit. Once we get that part working then we need to figure out how to trigger it from the coil (which may need the optional pull down resistor on the coil shown in my last sketch). I deleted the diodes for simplicity (if they are already there it is all right to leave them in as they shouldn’t hurt anything assuming I got the polarity right which may also be the source of the problem if I didn’t ) as without the coil they aren’t needed. With the button not pushed the led should be off. Pushing the button should turn the led on and keep it on briefly after the button is released.
Peter
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